Jun 17, 2013 - We aren't in Kansas anymore Toto

June 16 - We were thoroughly charmed by Castrojeriz in the form of 2 delightful young men of the village. One, Sergio owned the Casa Rural where we slept. He was not more than 30, had built this lovely hostel himself over 2 yrs and was planning to add a garden and pool. He was so proud of the pastoral view from our window. He did our laundry, and when we hung it to dry and sat on his terrace with a cold cerveza he came out and moved the drying rack so it didn't block our view. In the morning he and his wife bustled about making us cafe con...

Jun 16, 2013 - Mas Meseta

June 15 - We pass out out of the city of Burgos and very quickly we ascend to the huge high plains area of northern Spain known as the Meseta that we'll follow for several days. The path snakes on as far as the eye can see through endless fields of young wheat of the greenest green , poppies of the reddest red , skies of the bluest blue. It is achingly beautiful. Don, Cora and Willa- you would set up your easels here and never leave! We realise how lucky we are to have chosen June to walk this part of Spain . Any earlier and we would have...

Jun 16, 2013 - León y más

When I last wrote, I had made the log walk from Carrión de los Condes to Sahagún and then took train to León. León is a really nice city, with many monuments and museums. I went to the Basilica de San Isidoro, a large older church with simple, elegant architecture and an interesting museum adjacent. Unfortunately, then didn´t allow photos inside the museum, so can´t show you the really interesting frescoes on the ceiling of the Panteón Real (royal crypt). Also, the Hospital de San Marcos, an old Knights templar hospital and refuge for...

Jun 16, 2013 - Estoy en Ponferrada ya

Yesterday, Saturday, I walked 17 km to a tiny village, called El Acebo. Not a long day on the Camino, but since it included about 350 m (~1100 ft) of both ascent and descent, it was a challenging walk. I had my pack transported (a very handy sevice here on the Camino Francés), so I could enjoy the stage, and boy, it was worth every euro! The scenery was gorgeous, with heather and other flowering bushes everywhere, towering over my head. Mountains with spots of snow off to one horizon and pines and scrubby oaks and cherry trees along the...

Jun 14, 2013 - Beautiful Burgos

Ok it' s official...Burgos is now my new favourite large Spanish city. And I thought I loved Barcelona! We have had the nicest hot, sunny day, exploring the unbelievable cathedral, I believe the 2nd largest in Spain , walking up to to Castillo ( or what remains of it after it was shelled in war 200 yrs ago), strolling along the river promenade and enjoying a series of tapas and vino in the many large plazas....watching the parade of Castillian people walk by. These are a people that celebrate their children...I have never seen so many...

Jun 13, 2013 - Over the hills to Burgos we go

June 12- The walk today is one of favourites so far , even though we climb and climb to 1100 meters. We pass the small villages of Espinosa and Tosantos, the 12th C. Ruins of Our Lady of the Rock built into the cliffs and the 9th c. Monastery of San Felix de Oca. Then we climb up a lovely forested trail into the Montes de Oca . At the viewpoint at the peak, we look across in brilliant sunshine to the mountain range opposite- the highest peak of San Milan has snow on it. A Spanish cyclist is proud to tell us that we are looking out over the...

Jun 13, 2013 - La meseta y la música

Just so you know, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly on the plain. I have had nothing but strong sun ever since reaching la meseta central, having had rain throughout all the mountain and hilly areas I have been through. I left Oviedo and stopped in Pola de Lena on my way south to rejoin the Camino Francés. There I walked out to a lovely, tiny little church on the edge of a mountain valley. Utterly peaceful. Train next morning to León where I stayed just long enough to obtain another credencial for pilgrims as mine is getting almost...

Jun 13, 2013 - People and stories of the Camino

People and Stories of the Camino: -Jeff is a young man from California who arrived with us on the late train into St.Jean Pied de Port. He didn't have accommodation booked and couldn't find a room. We ran into him days later and he told us 2 hilarious tales. The people in the pilgrim office called up someone to take him to their pensione. They picked him up in a van with no windows and kitchen chairs in the back to sit on- then apologized for the smell, as the donkey had been riding in there earlier! Then, when he stayed in the big albergue...

Jun 12, 2013 - Gastronomical Blog

Hi All, I must admit to tiring somewhat now ,after 6 weeks solid travel,sights,fun etc ...now on to Italy! However a recap of the gastronomical highlights for us of Morrocco and Spain first. Morrocco: Freshly squeezed orange juice- large glasses 4 Dirhams=45cents Nous nous :fabulous strong expresso coffee with a dash of milk ,10 to 12 Dirhams=$1.20 to $1.50 Olives :all Fantastic but especially Black ones Bread rolls - round,thin,very crusty and light (French baguette influence) 1 dirham=12 cents Sardines -Essouira on coast Mint tea,locally...

Jun 11, 2013 - Beautiful Barcelona

I haven't been to all the cities in the world,..far from it..but I think Barcelona would have to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The people are smiling, friendly and helpful, the food is excellent and the architecture, art and culture are just wonderful. There is a sophisticated yet easy-going feel to the city. Antoni Gaudi's buildings, one of my main reasons for coming here, are incredible; the man was brilliant,100 years ahead of his time. How a humble, religious and seemingly conservative man could conceive the avant...

Jun 11, 2013 - Perversity comes in many forms

Dave Warner in 'Worst Day' tells the story of the worst day in his life when his girlfriend ran off with his best mate. He describes it as having his balls ("these balls!") slashed with a knife and compares it to Picasso watching his paintings destroyed- '"compared to me he's only mildly annoyed." I start here because this competes my bookend analysis of the contemporary Spanish masters, it includes specific body parts being perversely represented for 'art', involves covert sexual conflict and I like every opportunity to quote Perth's own...

Jun 11, 2013 - Santo Domingo to Belorado

June 11- We have survived another night in a large albergue. This one in St. Domingo is run by the Spanish confraternity and is really nice. On arrival we are offered wine and a foot specialist with a well stocked kit sits and attends to people's foot issues. There are many injuries- just that day we see a lady walking in flip flops with huge blisters and a young girl has a large blown up knee. This albergue has a sunny patio and a great lounge with big comfy couches, kitchen and dining room. When we arrive the Italian cyclists are cooking...