Jul 26, 2004 - Gone Feral

Seven trips to PNG over 16 years and I've never made it to the Sepik, one of the world's great rivers. This time I won't miss out. My schedule only allows a few days - but it's enough for a taste. I've afforded myself this one indulgence - while tourists are snorkelling, touring hinterlands and visiting villages, guidebook writers are in towns and on duty, checking hotels, restaurants, flight schedules, banks and postal facilities - it's a bit tragic really. In Wewak I contact a Sepik art broker about procuring a guide. She introduces me to...