Jul 18, 2004 - 'Yu raitim buk bilong PNG?'

Working in PNG as an LP author is a different experience from authoring elsewhere. You can't slip into town pretending to be a tourist, and then go checking every hotel in town, writing notes against your knee on the footpath, checking your guidebook map walking apace every street, snapping photos and bailing up shop attendants asking for directions. You are the only tourist in town, everybody's watching - thousands of eyes, everywhere you look. But everybody would be watching whatever you did, so you just get on with it. People approach,...