Jul 6, 2004 - Giant Bats, Flying Fish & Tattooed Ladies

I start out early, about 7.30am. It's gonna get hot so the more I get done before the debilitating midday heat, the better. The couple of days in transit from Melbourne to Madang on PNG's north coast have been beset by torrential tropical rain, delayed flights, long airport queues, bizarre taxi experiences, and a single sleepless Saturday night in Mosbi (Port Moresby) while the club outside my room rocked until 4am. For months I'd been preparing this trip - doctors' vaccination jabs and malarial prophylactics, working through author-brief...