Jun 12, 2018 - After six days of digital seclusion is there anything we missed?

We’re back after a six day digital fast. Has anything happened that we need to know about? Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan has a population of nearly one million. They also have a great market where once again dried fruits, nuts and spices take centre stage, along with a wonderful range of fresh fruits and vegetables and breads and cakes. However it is all downhill from there. Intrepid has planned a ‘wonderful ‘ day in 32 degree heat walking between a series of World War Two memorials and Soviet era architecture. It does not go down well...

Jun 6, 2018 - Wild Kyrgyzstan

Many people questioned why we would want to go to Kyrgyzstan. To us it was exotic, mysterious, out of the way but now we also know it is incredible. What an effort to get here. Leaving noisy, hazy, neglected, chaotic Kashgar we had a long day ahead of us with nearly as much time delayed at checkpoints, nine in all, as spent in the bus, six hours in total. We had photos taken passports looked at, faces observed, luggage checked and every time waiting, waiting, waiting. We climbed through the Torugart Pass skirting the snow capped mountains...

Aug 22, 2017 - A night in a yurt caravanserai at 10,000 feet

The next step gave a real idea of life on the high mountain steppes separating Central Asia from western China. The road rose from 3,000 feet to 10,000, occasionally 12,000 feet with the inevitable impact on breathing, to sunlit uplands where the nomadic Kyrgyzs continue a way of life typical of tough animal herders in many of the Stans. Daily life involves moving their animals and yurt homes every so often for pastures new across the grass plains in what is often bitterly cold (down to -54 degrees), or sweltering summer temperatures and...

Aug 21, 2017 - Kyrgyzstan - Bishkek to Lake Issyk-kul

We have now been joined by the rest of the university group for the start of the official lecture and study tour to pick up the Eastern end of the Silk Road towards Western China. Initially we follow arid mountain ranges on both sides of the valley east of Bishkek heading towards what was once one of the most dangerous parts of the Silk Road known as Ambush Gorge where merchants who once travelled this northern route skirting the large Taklimakan desert were prey to bandits. The name is still justified today as every bend in the road seems...

Jun 20, 2015 - Kyrgyzstan

Immediately after crossing the border, the terrain changed from Uzbek's primarily desert scrubland to Kyrgyzstan's lofty mountains. What a dramatic difference to go from hot, sunny days slathered in sun-screen to a cool, rainy climate complete with snow on the mountains. The culture also transitioned from a more "Middle Eastern" and Muslim feel to a nomadic people, still finding their way following independence from Russia. As a result of very little development, a lot of our time in Kyrgyzstan was spent driving through glorious mountainous...

Oct 18, 2013 - Arslanbob - Lion's Gate

Salam - Our next stop is a home stay in the village of Kochkor. Good to get a warm shower. And to get a much better idea of the living conditions for a family here. The hospitality is terrific but the food not so much. The next morning we visit a women's cooperative that specializes in felt work and embroidery. The felt work of the Kyrgyz is distinctive. We watch the process then participate. I especially appreciate a felt hat that will keep my head warm during the freezing nights camping. The weather has been colder than I anticipated. The...

Oct 13, 2013 - Jeti-Oghuz

Another high Alpine valley, Kok Jayik - the valley of flowers. Today is a "free day" which means that there are no plans and we wander about at will. I want some alone time and spend my day along the nearby line of birches. A wonderful day to appreciate, to remember, and be grateful. Enjoy the photos.

Oct 12, 2013 - Altyn Arashan

Salam - A picturesque alpine valley at 3000 meters. Would never have been able to get here on my own - too remote. Even Aziza couldn't make it. After a night in Karakol we transferred to a 6 wheel Russian troop transport and even then there were places where we had to get out and walk due to the gradient and questionable bridges. No tents but relatively frigid dorms. The real delight was a series of hot pools to relax in after hiking. Our troop transport driver, Sergei, gets into the vodka a bit heavy the first night. The next morning we...

Oct 11, 2013 - Karakol

Salam - After leaving Bishkek we spent two nights camping before reaching a hotel our third night. Too bad hot water was scarce and water pressure low. Along the way we managed a hike up a wadi into hills reminiscent of Utah, visited ancient petroglyphs, and skirted the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul, the second largest alpine lake in the world. Karakol had several sights of interest, including a Dungan temple which was built without nails by 20 Chinese artisans just after the turn of the Twentieth century. We also visited Holy Trinity...

Oct 7, 2013 - Kyrgyzstan - Landscapes

Salam - Kyrgyzstan - the nation of the Kyrgyz, the forty tribes. Here are a few landscape photos from Kyrgyzstan. The transition from Soviet Socialist Republic to independence has had its challenges. Lacking the mineral resources of its larger neighbors Kyrgyzstan is working at becoming an eco-tourism destination. With its magnificent scenery and friendly, post-nomadic peoples Kyrgyzstan was a pleasant surprise for me. I never tired of the changing landscapes - desert to Alpine valley, to stark mountain pass, along clear green rivers, with...

Oct 6, 2013 - Overlanding

Salam - Three days in Kyrgyzstan's capital are barely time enough to recover from 44 hours on planes and in airports. I'm 12 time zones away from the California cabin and 10 from Destin's beaches. Years away as well. Is this 1950's Soviet Union? A pioneer outpost of Tsarist Russia? A 13th Century Silk Route stop? Yes to all, just add cell phones and designer jeans. Unlike my usual solitary mode of travel, this time I'm joining a group. We'll see how that works. Overlanding began in the early '70s as companies formed to assist incompetent...

May 30, 2013 - Kyrgyzstan - a country with too many consonants

Kyrgyzstan. Pronounced Kirgizstan – not Kirgikistan or Kirgizia for short (in Russian). First question you may have is where is that? And why are you going there? Kyrgyzstan is one of the stan countries that used to be part of the USSR and is located south of Kazakhstan and west of China. From Alberta it’s literally the other side of the world. And why did I go there? I’ve always been fascinated by Central Asia especially after meeting Asian looking people who speak Russian. So as soon as I learned that a friend of mine from Toronto was...