Mar 26, 2013 - Khajuraho to Orchha

This morning we take a 4 hour bus ride from Khajuraho to Orccha ... for every moment of the drive there is something to see ... something to make you smile, make you laugh out loud, make you think or make you cry. That sums India up so far I think. A woman dressed in full sari in a wheat field raises her sickle to wave at us as we pass ... a boy with no pants ... small buses packed with people both inside and on top of the bus ... people look either exhausted or genuinely happy. There is no in between. Humans, dogs and goats seeking shade...

Mar 25, 2013 - Khajuraho

It's a very warm morning in Khajuraho with temperatures likely in the high 30s. I'm guessing that it will hit 40 by the afternoon. Our local guide is a lively man who speaks quickly and with passion. He's also pretty good at herding the group and directing us to view what is important. The temples at Khajuraho were built during the Chandella dynasty between 950 and 1050. Of the 85 original temples, only 20 temples remain. The temples strike a perfect balance between architecture and sculpture. The most intact is the Temple of Kandariya...

Feb 25, 2013 - India - Khajuraho

Wednesday 27th February 2013 Khajuraho Left hotel at 10am for tour of temples. Originally 85 temples, now 25 surviving, in various stages of preservation, they were built in 10th to 12th century by the Chandela rulers. They are made of yellow fine grain sandstone and have very detailed carving over all the surfaces giving them a honey combed appearance from a distance. They are grouped in west, east and south clusters with the mountains in the north quarter. We visited the western group, it has one working temple for the local people with...

Mar 20, 2012 - Khajuraho- ancient temples

Khajuraho, or more precisely the famous cluster of temples there, is another one of those places that is much better left to photos than to description. Despite the abundance of temples and ancient sites we had seen in India, we were told repeatedly by endless sources that this was unmissable, and so we squeezed in a visit courtesy of round trip overnight trains. There is an interesting history behind the creation of the different temples that we learned while we were there, but to be honest it’s not the kind of information that sticks...

Jan 29, 2012 - L'arte del kamasutra

Khajuraho è un posto da non perdere. I suoi templi sono magnifici e, nonostante siano tra i più antichi visti fino ad ora (sono stati costruiti a cavallo dell’anno 1000) mostrano una modernità nel modo di raffigurare impressionante. E non dico questo perché le immagini sono quelle di donne, uomini e animali impegnati in pose sessuali, che richiedevano certamente un ottimo allenamento fisico e che il mondo occidentale, a quei tempi, non si sarebbe mai sognato di raffigurare, ma perché li rappresentano con una fluidità di movimenti, uno...

Feb 9, 2011 - Khajuraho 2

Leaving Khajuraho tomorrow. Going to Jhansi and from there to Orchha. It will be about a 5-6 hour journey. Yeah. I both love and hate Khajuraho. Itis a really small town that is totally dedicated to the tourist trade. The minute I walk out the front door of my hotel people start clamoring around me: rickshaw drivers, store owners, touts, people who just want to "practice" their English. It is definitely not hassle free. I did go to the festival the first night here. On the way a guy followed me talking to me the whole time. They don't seem...

Feb 5, 2011 - Khajuraho

Arrived safely in Khajuraho. I am staying at the Jain Hotel. There is a big dance festival going on here showcasing various traditional dance styles. I may go tonight just to see the different traditional dance styles. The power is out here so we are running minimally on batteries. I will keep in touch. Love ya'll.

Feb 4, 2011 - Sanchi Side Trip

I will more than likely be taking the night bus to Khajuraho tomorrow. Today I went to Sanchi which is a hilltop area of Buddhists stupas, monasteries and pillars. It dates from between 2200-1300 years ago. It was not as adorned as many sights, and did not come with a lot of hype, but I loved it. I could have stayed there all day. I met one nice man, a writer from Chennai who says that the next time I come to India I must stay with him. I also met some Buddhists from Sri Lanka, and just genuinely had a lovely day today with minimal hassle....

Feb 3, 2011 - Bhopal

I skipped through aurangabad pretty quick. My room was not great. the air and the roads were i really bad shape. I had a bad impression when I first got there. I have had negative reactions to my ethnicity in the past, but this was the first time it had happened to me severa times in one day, and obviously at that. The first hotel the guy refused to tell me whether he had any rooms available until I told him what country I came from. This has happene to me about a dozen times before and I did what I did the previous times. I walked out. The...

Jan 26, 2011 - Day of Rest

We have decided to take it easy today although we did take a brief auto rickshaw ride to the beautiful Wind Palace. However we could only stay 5 minutes as the auto rickshaw was not allowed to park and we were constantly hassled by people in the area. We returned to the hotel base for the rest of this alcohol free day. On independence day in India the sale of alcohol is banned. Unfortunately even the old trick of selling it in a tea pot will not work but our accommodation manager says he will sell it to us in our room and deny all knowledge...

Jan 25, 2011 - Amber Palace and Bollywood Movies

This morning we had breakfast watching the sun rise from the hill fort, listening to the sounds of the village far below come to life as the day broke. The peacocks and animals adding their cries to the sound of the anvil being hammered somewhere in the village. In the distance I can already see the women in bright red traditional clothing in the fields moving like ants across the fields of lush green wheat. At 9.30 our group of 12 and our guide left by jeep for the next part of the adventure. We take a 2 hour drive down a road with...

Jan 24, 2011 - A Perfect Day

This was without doubt one of the most amazing days we have ever had. We made an 8am start by jeep to pick up the public bus to Madhogarh. The bus a little disconcertingly had a brick incorporated in its radiator grill. Our hearty group was joined by other European, Indian and American travellers, on a bus that proved remarkably comfortable even for someone of John's excessive height. This surprisingly comfortable nature of the seats was just as well since we had a five hour coach trip to endure. When finally the bus came to a stop it was...