Jan 31, 2013 - Antigua Redux

Decided to spend our last few days in Guatemala revisiting the Rip Van Winkle city of Antigua. When the Spanish gave up rebuilding Antigua in 1773, after yet another devastating earthquake (three in 65 years). The devastated town was abandoned and left to the locals for close to 200 years. Ruined buildings and those not so ruined were left as they were. All the streets remain cobblestoned. There is a relaxed atmosphere that pervades the way of life. Your voice bears the brunt of being in this place as EVERYONE you pass on the streets says...

Jan 28, 2013 - Tilapacita and Mangroves

Josh picked us up at 06:00 for the 2 1/2 hour drive down from the western highland mountains to the Pacific coast town of Tilapa. It is in the southwest corner of Guatemala very close to the Mexico border. Actually, we're going to the little oceanside island town of Tilapacita where we board a long narrow outboard motor lancha for transport thru the mangrove groves. There´ll be Josh, Lidia, the capitan and me. Even by 09:00 the morning sun is considerably hotter than our last couple weeks in the western mountain highlands. Hence our primary...

Jan 28, 2013 - Last two days to see it

The convent of the Capuchine has to be the experience of Guatemala. The building was completed in 1743 and was abandoned after the earthquake of 1773(date) It was designed by a local man who only built interesting thins. It is not to anything like the scale of European churches and Christopher Wren but it has features and simple elegance that make it a stick in your head once visited. The church, now a relic is used on special occasions, weddings etc. The grounds cover an enormous area as the place was designed to support around 125...

Jan 27, 2013 - Coffee is the Guatemalan Lifeblood

We were picked up in the main plaza, a little late, as usual and after buying street jewellry from the locals we boarded an army jeep and drove up the mountain to the Filadelfia ( spelling) 700 acre plantation. { 250 acres of plants}. Our guide, Joshua, KNEW coffee. He has lived with it in his family and he believes it will remain with him and his family as their means for the for seeable future. "Guatemala is coffee." The nursery picture with him shows the years planting, both replacement for old plants and those for expansion. Each plant...

Jan 26, 2013 - Quetzaltenango

Quetzaltenango is the second largest city in Guatemala; 225,000 people, 61% indigenous & 34% mestizo. It is at 2,330m or 7,655ft altitude, and so is often used for high altitude (read no oxygen !) athletic training. Quetzaltenango is the name the Spanish led indians gave to it in the 17th century. The local Mayans called in Xela; pronounced shay-la. Often times these towns in the highlands with a strong Mayan presence go by two names - the Spanish Indian name, and the Mayan. The city bustles with activity during the day with local produce...

Jan 26, 2013 - Antigua

Guatemala City is in the rear view mirror. Three million people, an estimate, and chaos everywhere. The police patrol the roadsides to pick up those who are not going to be here for another day We drove over the mountains to the small but important Mayan centre, Antigua. Cobblestone streets control the traffic speeds, the roads are so rough cars are forced to travel at reasonable speed. No traffic lights and no particular regulation though our guide indicated that one should assume the cars have the right of way! Typically no set backs for...

Jan 24, 2013 - Los Tarrales Reserve

Tourist office told us when and where we needed to be to catch the 06:15 bus from Pana to the Los Tarrales Reserve. So we got up early, had a cup of joe, called our tuc tuc buddy Eddie, and arrived at the bus stop at 06:00. There we learned that the bus actually passes by at 05:45. But not to worry there are resourceful Guatemalans always at hand to suggest a solution - of which they are a commercial component. So into a full 8 person van we climb (luggage on roof) and are driven to the next city over, about 15 minutes. Then we rapidly...

Jan 22, 2013 - Panajachel

After our 5,500 ft (1,676 m) vertical ascent yesterday our legs were a bit stiff - thank goodness for Advil. Riding in a van to Panajachel on Lake Atitlan was a lot less effort. The ride was a bit longer than expected as a landslide had closed a major road and we had to use a more mountainous (read UP & DOWN CURVY)'road'. Even that had suffered from the earthslide and a water-crossing no longer had the luxury of a bridge. The ride was none the less worth it. The views were spectacular especially as we neared the mountain descent to the...

Jan 20, 2013 - Acatenango Volcano

Up at 04:30 for coffee and then a one hour ride to the start of our hike to the summit of Acatenango Volcano at 13,129 ft. We arrive to a small village before sunup and start the climb. It is in the direction of up from the beginning; not much flat or down for the next five hours. The up is also quite steep. AND the surface of the ground is mostly loose, and usually 6 inches deep, small volcanic gravel. So, what does that mean you ask. Well it means with each small step (not much more than a foot length in front of the previous step)forward...

Jan 18, 2013 - Antigua

Antigua is a throw back city in time. The streets are all cobbled, and the buildings are mostly one story. It also used to be the Spanish capital of their Central American Empire till 1773. Why you might ask ? Well after more than three hundred years of repeated earthquakes that usually levelled the town/city the Spanish created and moved to Guatemala City. Hence Antigua remained in a relative time warp, and what a pleasure to be so `warped´. Maybe the cobbled streets impede your attempts at moving fast that time slows ? To be in a hurry...

Jan 14, 2013 - Tikal

The bus ride was semi-comfortable. The seats recline a lot, so you almost believe you are lying prone, or is that prone to lying ? It really was acceptable - have certainly been on worse. Arrived to Flores, on Lago Peten, at 05:30 and arranged a combi-bus ride to Tikal, about an hour away. Dropped off our luggage at our hotel in the Tikal Park, and off exploring we went. We were first greeted by a 'band' of about a hundred Coatimundi's; actually maybe should be called a symphony or choir. Tikal is huge; about six square miles of about 3000...

Jan 11, 2013 - Guatemala Journey Begins

Well it's back on the road. Spin the dial and Guatemala it is. No defined plans but we will see what we like and stay, or move on if the place is not nice. Our friends Rosemary and Jorge the chauffeur drove us to San Antonio from where we flew to Mexico City and spent a night at an airport hotel. Next morning flew to Guatemala City, where we'll stay for a few days to 'get our feet on the ground', and plan the next destination. Guatemala City is the national capital and has about 1.2 million population. Stayed at a nice small hotel near the...