Sep 20, 2015 - Qomolongma (aka:Everest)!

Wow, Everest, need I say more? The Tibetans call her Qomolongma (mother of the earth or holy mother). Even during the best season, she is often covered in clouds, so many visitors never get a glimpse of her. Imagine our delight when after almost 5 months on the road, we drove over a ridge, and there rose the Himalayan range with Qomolongma in all of her glory. Sun shining down on us, prayer flags waving, we jumped up and down with delight taking photo after photo. So very lucky. We realized how lucky when we arrived at the collection of...

Sep 16, 2015 - Tibet's Friendship Highway across the Roof of the World

After a short time in Lhasa, we traveled over the Friendship Highway to Gyantse and Shigatse on the way to Everest Base Camp, our southernmost destination in China. We were unable to continue along the highway into Nepal because the earthquake damage had rendered the road impassable, so instead, we would loop back up to Lhasa for an expensive flight (US$500 each!) into Kathmandu. With the multitude of switchbacks and crumbling asphalt, high up through the mountain range, I would not have been eager to try to make it over the highway. The...

Sep 14, 2015 - We made it to Lhasa!

No picture can ever do the Potala Palace justice. Admittedly, after eight full days of driving through mud and over crumbling roads, camping at altitude in all kinds of weather, shivering with all my clothes on at night, and and struggling to catch my breath when doing any kind of activity, I was desperate for just a tiny glimpse. But I must admit, even after all the impressive buildings I have seen all over the world, I truly think the Potala is the most impressive. The Potala was built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th...

Apr 7, 2015 - Monks

This morning we went to the Drepung Monastery. Aafter going through security there was an elderly ethnic lady that asked the guide if we would give her a ride up the hill. We of course agreed to do it. This is the largest and richest monastery in Tibet. It was founded in 1416 by Tsong Khapa under the patronage of the noble family and enlarged by the 5th Dalai Lama. Drepung means rice heap. It covers a floor space of 200 thousand square meters. It was an eduction center which housed 10,000 monks at one time, now there are about 400. We...

Apr 6, 2015 - Lhasa

Tibet has a population of about 5 million. Tibet is the capital and the largest city with a population of 400,000. Lhasa means Holy Land or Buddha Land. It is located in the south central region on the north bank of the Lhasa River, surrounded by mountains. It was settled over 1,300 years ago and covers over 11,583 square miles and is at an altitude of almost 12,000 feet. Our guide lives in the city for 4 months to work as a tour guide. The rest of the year she lives a nomadic life with her family. They raise sheep and yak. In the summer...

Apr 5, 2015 - The Roof of the World

Up early for the plane to Tibet. FreeIng cold n the airport. I've got 4 layers plus gloves on! On the plane and again flight delay due to Air Traffic Control! The Chinese lady next to me said it was probably military related! You know it's going to be awhile when they serve snacks and beverages before you take off! At least we have a direct flight! Had to show passports and Tibet permit when we arrived. Met by our guide, Guo Guo (pronounced Go Go), or we can call her by her English name, Amy.mshe gave us Each a khala, a white, long silk...

Jun 12, 2014 - To Zhangmu 8 k from Nepal border

June 12 day 14 riding to Zhangmu 8 k from Nepal border. 96k, 5hr 50min. Longest descent in the world – top of Thang La Pass 5050m to Zhangmu 2400m. Against nasty headwinds on section after Thang La to lunch. Nickie almost ready to go in truck. Awesome descent through rain forest type scenery. Orchids. June 13 Friday. Day 15 riding. Cross border into Nepal to Dhulikhel. 96k, 7hr.30 ridetime. day. 8 easy ks downhill to Tibet-Nepal border. Must have been a hundred and more trucks parked nose to tail whole way down. Drivers waiting for...

Jun 10, 2014 - 10th and 11th Riding to Tingri and onto Lalung pass

June 10 day 12 riding. 50ks to Tingri then 12ks to camp. Nickie chose to walk with Jan today rather than shake herself to bits over the very rough roads to Tingri. They set off rugged up against the cool wind with hats,scarfs and gloves and probably made 6ks when the truck reached them after having packed up tents and camp. Nickie enjoyed the experience of being able to look around at the scenery and talk with Jan, what an interesting lady. Walking way more relaxing than being on the bike and having to constantly watch the road and pick a...

Jun 9, 2014 - 16 k return ride to Everest base camp

June 9 Day 11 riding. 16 k return ride to Everest base camp 5200m then 16 to camp. A fairly mild night, surprised to see ice on the tents. Clear blue sky. A few wisps of cloud over Everest. Pete up 6am for photos. Packed up camp after 9am breakfast. Most of us rode to EBC. Marg and Jan left @8am to walk it. Marg walked beyond the prayer flags on the hill, there was no barrier arm across the road, and no legible sign advising a $200 US fine, nor anyone to tell her not to go on. Our guide Tennor got a ph call to pick her up asap!!....

Jun 8, 2014 - Everest and Rongbuk monastery

June 8 Day 10 riding to Rongbuk monastery. 5100m 42ks over terrible track, 4hr 30. Actual time 5 1/2 hrs with stops. No-one was looking forward to this ride over rough track. All the talk didn’t fill Nickie and Pete with confidence, the top riders worried about bike failure. But it was a pretty good day, hard but not too long. Climb of 300m over 9ks, then 15ks up and downs, then 15 ks up. About 25C mid afternoon. Nickie was powering up a short, very steep hill and suddenly was yanked to a stop…what the ??....her cotton shirt had dangled off...

Jun 7, 2014 - Ride to camp on road to Rongbok Monastery

June 7 day 9 ride to camp on road to Rongbok Monastery. 92ks, 6hr:30 ride time 6 ks out of Shegar had to present passports at police checkpoint. Clear still morning , about 10c. Rolling ups and downs, but mostly down. We rode in a wide valley. Hills all about, stony barren looking and all the colours of a spice market, clove, cinnamon, turmeric, pepper. Cell phone stations about every 15ks. Some cropping around the braided streams. About 50 horses far off in a large paddock. We haven’t seen horses used in the fields, only Yak and oxen....

Jun 6, 2014 - to Shegar

June 6 Day 8 to Shegar. 76 ks, over Lakpa La pass 5220m (17060ft), the highest we will climb. 5:50 ride time. A challenging day over the highest pass. 23k to climb 1200m !!!! Gradient fairly steep, and the chilling wind was brutal. Nickie did a slow speed fall onto her back from her bike on a steep part , chain jammed as she tried to change to 1:1 gear, no damage done. Had to have lots of stops to drink and get the heart rate down. Oxygen is at about 63% compared to sea level. About 2 ks from the top, Nickie experienced blurred vision,...