Mar 7, 2013 - Cochrane again

Exhaustion has set in after a fast 9 km trek along undulating paths very steep at times. No other tourists ...the place was all ours, desolate and spectacular river views. Surprisingly few birds and animals but millions of mosquitoes in places. We spied a type of woodpecker but it failed to wait for Graham to organise the right lens for his camera. (It was the very loud whispers from the assembled non-photographers that was the problem (Gr) Will spend the rest of afternoon having a quiet time in our hotel. It is huge and we are the only...

Mar 6, 2013 - Return to Cochrane

Staying in a remote outback Chilean town after another long journey which entailed less dust as it rained overnight.. Found only bar in town to try their piscos! Awaiting photo downloads. ************************************************************************************************************************ Met up with Mauro and went back to carpark at Tortel. Fortunately, the road (and van) were not as dusty as it had rained. Returned to Cochrane in sunshine and had lunch at small resto. Walked out into the local hills just N of town...

Mar 5, 2013 - Trekking to Steffen Glacier

A 2.5 hr boat ride,14 km fast walk in rain at times with glimmers of sun, another 2.5 hr boat ride home was the price to pay to see the Steffen Glacier and have it all to ourselves. This glacier is still growing.Vegetation along the way was especially interesting and we were able to feast on calafate berries. The Chilean fire bush which is related to our waratah was also in abundance. My waterproof walking shoes were not waterproof. Back in the cosy boat cabin at 5pm we were given a delicious bowl of lamb and rice stew for lunch! Then back...

Mar 4, 2013 - Drive to Caleta Tortel

Long dusty drive to Tortel. Discussion about schist with crenulation cleavages was compensated for by the sound and sight of grade 5+ rapids at the junction (confluence) of the raging Baker and Nef rivers. Then more dust until we reached the car park at Tortel where we carried only a few belongings to our lodge along boardwalks. The whole town is on board walks at the end of a fjord. Many, many steps...far more than Dubrovnik! Two sleeps here in friendly lodge with plenty of cordon bleu food and good...

Mar 2, 2013 - Land of the Fushias & Giant Rhubarb

Fushias are abundant here. Huge bushes/trees all along the road and hillsides. Giant Rhubarb also abounds. Supermarket shopping is very difficult with long lines and very slow cashiers. Absolutely nothing else to complain about though! ************************************************************************************************************************ Picked up by Marco from guesthouse and transferred to airport at Puerto Montt and fly by LAN to Balmaceda. Weather improved en route. Met at airport by Mauro (guide) and clapped out...

Feb 24, 2013 - Auf der Carretera Austral von Puerto Montt nach Villa O´Higgins

Ich bin seit heute in Coihaique und fahre am Dienstag weiter. Soweit ist alles ok ausser das ich seit ein paar Tagen auf zwei von meinen Schläuchen je einen Flicken habe... (irgendwann triffts einen immer, aber das ist halb so wild:-) Update 06.03.2013: Auch der Abschnitt bis Cochrane ist nun geschafft. Nach einem Ruhetag werde ich dann vermutlich Morgen weiterfahren. Update 18.03.2013: Mittlerweile bin ich in El Chalten (Argentinien) und bin ein paar Tage Wandern gegangen. Die Weiterfahrt in Richtung Puerto Natales (Chile) und weiter zum...

Feb 22, 2011 - Villa O'Higgins to Futaleufu

Today we are in the little resort city of Futaleufu. Did the river yesterday. We have met some wonderful people and have had a great time traveling the Autral Caretarra. So far we have traveled about 1200 miles(only 120 miles of it has been paved) We only have less than a week to go to get to the last ferry out without having to drive back into Argentina. 2/12- Walked through Tortal, a unique city with no car access only wooden walkways. Then drove to Villa O'Higgins via a long Ferry wait. Arrived in O'Higgins a late afternoon. Found the...

Feb 11, 2011 - First couple of days in Chile, getting to Ruta 7

We left Puerto Deseado and crossed the desert to Chile Chico and then Camped at the boarder at a small little town called Antigua. It was hot and windy, surprise. The wind was down a bit so it was hotter than normal, in the low 90's. We did see some guanacos and a bunch of Rheas. The climate was rather dry and so the thorn scrub plants were rather short and sparse compared to our drive further north. Paco is cranking, we are averaging about 60mph, and on the straight a ways almost 70. I did get the oil changed before we left Puerto Deseado....

Dec 15, 2010 - Chile Chico via Pto Guadal

Ride from Cochrane to Cruce (then onward to C.C.)- beautiful road along the Rio Baker - water from green to turquoise blue, lake a deep aqua marine! Bright, snowcapped peaks in background. Near Bertrand, Campo de Vida, fantastic scenery! Met driver w/ pickup, road along lake G.Camerro is single lane, gravel...basically blasted from the rock face bordering lake. Up down curves...ferrific ride, I'm really sad my camcorder has died, Bon takes no pics since she finds they are too blurred and Mari very few as well. Sigh. Trees, old coibo or...

Dec 14, 2010 - Cochrane

Bus came at 11:15 and when it arr there was just enuf space for 7 of us waiting! Whew! Fabulous scenery...really bummed that my camcorder is not working on computers so I can download/offload pics. Mari and Bon both take some but not from bus. Lakes and rivers are a deep blue to light aqua color, mtns mostly forested by 2nd growth it looks like, and many snowcapped...even glaciers. So beautiful it's hard to describe and even pics don't do justice. Guanacos we see, and puma - don't see - did not even see many birds perhaps because it is our...

Dec 12, 2010 - Chile Chico

In Los Antiguos: We meet our roommate in the dorm at Hospedaja Parrillo from Israel...he´d come up from El Chalten by bus which arr at 10 pm last nite (and left this morning from here at 9 am to go back). He was also looking to go to Chile and try his luck hitching the Austral Hwy. We got info from our nice Hospedaje owner and also at the tourist office which was very surprisingly open. Nothing else is open so we got some sweets, bread, etc at a panaderia and then went to the only restaurant open for tea/coffee (all they were serving now -...

Feb 3, 2010 - Chilean Fjords, Chile

We have had a couple days at sea cruising The Chilean Fjords. We visited several glacier fingers, all coming from the large southern coast ice field. Some of the mountains are heavily forested and others are solid stone with little vegetation since soil is blown away by the winds. The icy fjords here make up one of the least populated areas in South America: the density here is said to be lower than the Sahara Desert. Darwin referred to this area as the green desert since there is so little wild life here. The air is crisp and cold ranging...