Mar 16, 2013 - Everything can change in a second

Nearly didn't get to write this latest entry. You see we were driving down Ruta 40 towards El Calafate when over to the left way back near a fence on the other side of the road I spotted a guanaco. These are to Argentinian drivers what kangaroos are to Australians. Another car was approaching on what was otherwise a long straight stretch of highway through barren land. Suddenly the guanaco charges rapidly, galloping towards both cars. It's a sight I'll never forget. Luckily Jim didn't see any of this or he might have reacted with disastrous...

Feb 8, 2013 - El Calafate

2/8/2013 A semi rest day. We stayed at camp today and walked the town. El Calafate reminded us of a miniature Banff or Jasper. The main part of town is 8 blocks long filled with many booking agencies and gift shops. The town has a population of about 25,000 and gets about 100,000 visitors per year.

Feb 7, 2013 - El Calafate

2/7/2013 Our first sightings of the Andes. Not all that impressive until we get nearer to El Calafate. This small mountain town on the foothills of the Andes reminds us of Jasper or Banff in Alberta, Canada. El Calafate is the jumping off point to visit the Moreno Glacier. After getting our campsite in El Calafate we headed out to Moreno Glacier for a one hour boat tour. We have seen many glaciers in our time and while looking forward to the cruise did not have high expectations, WE WERE WRONG! Moreno Glacier is a sight to behold. On our...

Jan 18, 2013 - Torres del Paine-Day 2

We are having a wonderful time, except for the frustration of the Internet and this "my trip journal" site. The last two nights I tried to post, but it wouldn't save, so I couldn't send out e-mail notifications. Hopefully this will go through. Tomorrow we leave for our cruise (Punta Arenas to Ushuaia.) That is the one part of the trip that definitely has no Internet service. If this message goes through, I will attempt to go back to my El Calafate posts. Most likely, you will have to wait for the rest of my photos & details until after I...

Jan 14, 2013 - Perito Moreno Glacier & Laguna Nimez Bird Reserve

This is the third time I have typed this update! Maybe this will work this time! We are staying at the Hotel Kosten Aike- a somewhat Swiss decor hotel, but very much influenced by the Teheulche Indian culture & heritage. Two things really surprised us. One is the heat! We came with all cold weather clothes and the temperature has been muy caliente! (Hot!). Secondly, it doesn't get dark until 11:00! On our first day here, we had a private driver take us to view the Perito Moreno Glacier. Mario was great, & we really enjoyed our day. He drove...

Jan 13, 2013 - Iguazu to El Calafate

Up early today to fly to El Calafate, via Buenos Aires. Long travel day! But we were very fortunate that out flights went as scheduled. "On time" seems to be a rarity for this airline, but we have been very fortunate that our first three legs have gone VERY well. Unfortunately, there was a 3 1/2 hr. scheduled layover in BAs. Finally arrived in El Calafate, found a taxi & headed to the Hotel Kosten Aike. More later.

Jan 7, 2013 - Glaciers and icebergs, southern Patagonia

Wow! Wow! Wow! Even on a rainy day, the glaciers in southern Patagonia are absolutely spectacular. Perito Moreno glacier took my breath away with its sheer size; people appear like tiny ants on the surrounding 4 km of catwalks that offer superb opportunities to watch and listen to the glacier which regularly 'calves', sending huge chunks of ice into the surrounding glacial water. Perito Moreno is one of the few 'stable' glaciers, not receding as is now the norm. In size, it is about 30 km long, 5 km wide and about 60m high. We have had...

Dec 14, 2012 - Glacier Perito Moreno, El Calafate

Day trip to Lago Argentino (largest lake in all of Argentina, some 1600 sq km) and the utterly fabulous Glacier Perito Moreno. Mixed group of around 20 of us, mainly Spanish speakers and one other Brit. Couple of photo stops along the way and then a catamaran on the lake taking us up close to the glacier itself. It's one of the world's few glaciers that is not receding and ice calves off the glacier every 10 minutes or so, crashing noisily into the water. Then a trip to the main look out point where there's a series of viewing balconies...

Dec 8, 2012 - Amazing Patagonia

First off, we apologize for not uploading any photos but for some reason, it is taking painfully long to download them to the site, so you may have to see them post trip. We just completed the southern Patagonia leg of our journey. Today we flew to Ushuaia which is the most southern city in the world. We have lots to catch up on.... We arrived in El Calafate, a town of approx. 6ooo people on November 2. This is the major hub for serious trekking and tourism in Patagonia and therefore, is the sole reason for its existence. The town is...

Dec 5, 2012 - Week 10 - Puerto Madryn, El Calafate, El Chalten (Argentina)

At the start of the week we were still in Puerto Madryn and following our successful day whale watching had booked a bus trip down to the Punta Tombo penguin colony, the most important Magellan penguin breeding ground on the continent with over 200,000 of the little critters during the breeding season when we were there (more than doubling at malting season). As soon as you entered the reserve you could see penguins sitting on eggs and chicks, under bushes and shrubs and hiding in holes, they were everywhere. It was so cute to watch the...

Nov 12, 2012 - Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier walk today! This glacier is within Los Glaciares National Park and is the most visited as it is the mosdt accessible. Lago (lake) Argentino is below the glaciars and is the 3rd largest lake completely within Argentina. It is an incredibly milky turqoise due to the glacial silt in suspension. What has amazed us over this treip is the immensity of all we are seeing. Everything is on such a grand scale. Our first glimpse of the Perito Moreno Galcier is wonderful but we don´t really get a feel for it´s magnificence until...

Nov 11, 2012 - Return to Argentina

Travel day today to El Calafete near the Los Glaciares National Park our next watering hole. We stop at the Mayadon Cave where remains of an ancient sloth were found, a short stretch for the legs before we set off again to cross the border again.This time it is much easier as the Argentines don´t really check much! We stop near an Estancia, sheep ranch, as we are changing to bus leaving Carlos and our driver Manuel to return to Chile. Another bus adventure as it is an hour and a half late. More heated conversation on the phone and much...