Mar 16, 2013 - Everything can change in a second

Nearly didn't get to write this latest entry. You see we were driving down Ruta 40 towards El Calafate when over to the left way back near a fence on the other side of the road I spotted a guanaco. These are to Argentinian drivers what kangaroos are to Australians. Another car was approaching on what was otherwise a long straight stretch of highway through barren land. Suddenly the guanaco charges rapidly, galloping towards both cars. It's a sight I'll never forget. Luckily Jim didn't see any of this or he might have reacted with disastrous...

Mar 14, 2013 - A long way to the top (and even further back down again)

It's 7.30 and the lazy dogs of Patagonia are finally barking. It's our third day here in the town of El Chalten and the air is crisp and the sky is bright outside but we are cosy tucked up inside Cabanas La Loma where the proprietor, Esther, pumps up the heating each night to keep us tostada warm. Why she even has a radiator right next to the Banos if you need to go in the middle of the night. We made a 4am start up here from Buenos Aires but to our amazement found the domestic airport was a mere 5 minute journey from our accommodation,...

Mar 8, 2013 - Adventurous drive to Los Antiguos

We have been in some very remote places. At last I have wifi. Sorry for the wait! Adventurous drive to Los Antiguos along Chacabuco Valley through Roballos international pass into Argentina. It was a desolate, rough and high ripio road .The frontier crossing was remote with only 4 cars per day going through. The uniformed and armed border police on the Chilean side were far more officious than the young Argentinian lads, one in track pants! In Los Antiguos we met up socially with Guido our guide from 2011. Being International women’s day we...

Feb 9, 2013 - Rio Gallegos

2/9/2013 A leisure morning as we are driving to Rio Gallegos today where the campground is located 25K from town with nothing exciting to do, except watch the river flow past. After doing our shopping and filling the rig we were off to Rio Gallegos. Much nicer drive today as the winds were down.

Feb 8, 2013 - El Calafate

2/8/2013 A semi rest day. We stayed at camp today and walked the town. El Calafate reminded us of a miniature Banff or Jasper. The main part of town is 8 blocks long filled with many booking agencies and gift shops. The town has a population of about 25,000 and gets about 100,000 visitors per year.

Feb 7, 2013 - El Calafate

2/7/2013 Our first sightings of the Andes. Not all that impressive until we get nearer to El Calafate. This small mountain town on the foothills of the Andes reminds us of Jasper or Banff in Alberta, Canada. El Calafate is the jumping off point to visit the Moreno Glacier. After getting our campsite in El Calafate we headed out to Moreno Glacier for a one hour boat tour. We have seen many glaciers in our time and while looking forward to the cruise did not have high expectations, WE WERE WRONG! Moreno Glacier is a sight to behold. On our...

Feb 5, 2013 - Puerto San Julian

2/5/2013 Tonight in Puerto San Julian, a wonder small city, great camping and great people. We noticed coming in that many of the adults and children were very fair skinned. Scotts settled here to raise sheep. One of the cleanest water front towns we have ever been to and our campground host was very happy to see us. The camping park is on the water front. Great shipping museum. The drive here reminded us of the Australian Outback. Miles upon miles of nothing with the occasional “road house”.

Jan 21, 2013 - Petrified Forest

My description of Patagonia to this point has been one of glaciers, ice and penguins. A substantial area of the region, however, has a climate that is quite the opposite. This is especially true in Argentinian Patagonia. Like all mountain chains, the Andes determine the weather. While enormous amounts of snow fall on the western, i.e. Chilean, side of the mountains in Patagonia, there is very little precipitation east of the Andes. The area around El Calafate, Argentina is almost exclusively desert. There is, in fact, a very strange...

Jan 21, 2013 - One Last Solo Hike

As my time in Patagonia and South America comes to an end I took one last day hike in the mountains, and I made sure to do this one solo. There are few things in this world that I find as peaceful and relaxing as hiking by one’s self through gorgeous mountain scenery. I love the idea of being able to take a seat on a rocky ledge or alongside a clear stream for as long as I like to contemplate the beautiful surroundings. I’m sure you may all be getting tired of seeing pictures of mountains, but I never tire in taking them. The rest of the...

Jan 19, 2013 - An Awesome Sight

In the course of my travels Mother Nature has wowed me with some dramatic sights. She seems, though, to have saved one of the best for last--the Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentinian Patagonia. The Moreno Glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, which is the second largest ice field in the world outside of the Poles. Last week I was telling my hiking partners that glaciers are somewhat overrated as tourist attractions because they tend just to look like dirty snow. Boy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. The Perito Moreno Glacier...

Jan 18, 2013 - Torres del Paine-Day 2

We are having a wonderful time, except for the frustration of the Internet and this "my trip journal" site. The last two nights I tried to post, but it wouldn't save, so I couldn't send out e-mail notifications. Hopefully this will go through. Tomorrow we leave for our cruise (Punta Arenas to Ushuaia.) That is the one part of the trip that definitely has no Internet service. If this message goes through, I will attempt to go back to my El Calafate posts. Most likely, you will have to wait for the rest of my photos & details until after I...

Jan 14, 2013 - Perito Moreno Glacier & Laguna Nimez Bird Reserve

This is the third time I have typed this update! Maybe this will work this time! We are staying at the Hotel Kosten Aike- a somewhat Swiss decor hotel, but very much influenced by the Teheulche Indian culture & heritage. Two things really surprised us. One is the heat! We came with all cold weather clothes and the temperature has been muy caliente! (Hot!). Secondly, it doesn't get dark until 11:00! On our first day here, we had a private driver take us to view the Perito Moreno Glacier. Mario was great, & we really enjoyed our day. He drove...