2004-2006 - The first three years afloat. travel blog

Perce Rock

Love that sky

Typical Acadian town

Nicholas comes through

Passing our northern most point on the loop, we saw the last mountain of the Appalachian chain at Grande Vallee. It was here that we began injecting a southerly component to the course. Our travels to date have brought us 1560 Nm in the six weeks since leaving Baltimore. The stops have been generally the ones that we had planned, using the Down East Cruising Guide. Weather has been wonderful as we left behind the hot, humidity of the Chesapeake and found the breezy days and cooler evenings of the Canadian Maritimes. There have been a few hot days, some with rain, and a couple with fog. But for the most part the days were for shorts and t-shirts and the nights just right to climb under the down quilt to sleep.

This week we crossed from Quebec, to New Brunswick to Prince Edward provinces and added an hour to our clocks. The identifying cultures shifted from French to Acadian, to Scottish. Acadians relate to the early French settlers that "celebrated" the 250th anniversary of their expulsion by the British (1755) while we were in Buctouche, where our Acadian tour guide said "...even the Quebec'ers are Acadians...they just won't admit it..."

We left the anchorage at Riviere-au-Renard early on Saturday, 23 July and rounded the tip of the Forillon Peninsula by mid morning. There have been some great lighthouses along the Gaspe, but the one here was perched on a high cliff and belonged on a postcard. An hour later we were treated to another wonder. Perce is a large box of red rock with a huge arched key hole in one end. You can drive the boat right up to the hole...but not thru. Next door is an island (Bonaventure) filled with nesting gannets...Bill has been cleaning up after so many birds lately that we decided to skip the island. That night we stayed in Chandler, which in spite of it's name, was still very much a French town.

Our trip across Chaleur Bay on Sunday was a bit overcast, but calm. The problem came with our arrival at low tide. Getting across the bar at Shippagan, turned up lots of red mud and the fathometer went to zero. We pushed on thru and found enough water inside to make it to the slip. As our first New Brunswick port, we noticed the change immediately. Gone were all the light blue and white Quebec flags and in their place were the blue, white, red of another proud province. We had a great seafood dinner in this big fishing port, serving both Chaleur and Northumberland communities.

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