|05 November- took a four hour bus ride along the coast, passing Shanes' surfing spot north of Agidir, and getting off the bus at Essauira. Hired a guy with a cart to wheel our luggage along the road and into the Medina (Brian has hurt his right hand) for the princely sum of 10 dirhams and found Riad Emeraude. A lovely restored Riad (old family home of 4 or 5 floors surrounding a tiled courtyard and with rooftop terraces). Our room is whitewashed with blue doors and with painted flowers- very pretty.
The medina is all narrow alleys and side streets, whitewashed walls and skyblue door and window frames, with colourful goods hanging outside the small shops. No tense aggressive selling which makes apleasant chanbge and allows for browsing.
Sun 06 Nov. Breakfast upstairs on a sunny terrace and then a stroll to the busstop to buy tickets to our next stop El Jadid_ one hour short of Casablanca.
Bought Tracey a necklace from a really nice guy- he and his cousin make the Berber jewellery that they sell in his tiny shop. He weighed the necklace and when we enquired why he explained that that was how they valued the necklace and recorded it in a book. 10 % of the profit was given to the poor. Because of this conversation I was glad that I hadnt bargained too hard like a Berber woman! The necklace is all the better for having a story behind it.
( in previous bargaining sessions, one of which Brian could have sold me for 5000 camels, I had haggled quite hard and was subsequently called a Berber woman by the trader- high praise indeed!)
We enjoyed Essaouira although it deserves it's name of Windy city, as it blew hard the whole time making it very dusty.