Night in a "refuge" it said, it turned out to be a lodge, what a luxury! Spanish guides have come along from Arequipa to enlighten us on the Colca Canyon, the agriculture in Inca times and the flight of the condor that can be sighted early in the morning, if they have a mind to be sighted. Up early again and off by bus, the explanations turned out to be in Spanish and lost on most of the group. After a long route along the canyon, which is indeed very steep and deep, 3,400 metres it said, through unlit and unsigned oneway tunnels (one shudders to contemplate oncoming traffic), we arrived at Cruz del Condor. We were not the only ones. Several platforms provide for a view, and the condors can be expected from about 8.30 a.m. onwards. And they showed, not many, two to be exact, show offs too, as they drifted slowly along the platforms. They looked majestic, but unfortunately the pictures do not really render that.