Bob and Annie Croatia and Slovenia travel blog

Solin village.

Solin village church tower.

Reconstruction of the ancient aquaduct.

Detail from one of the many sarchophagi among the ruins of the...

Columns in the manastririne.

Thermae - ruins of the public baths.

Beautiful sarcophagus.

The ampitheatre, capacity 17000 spectators.

Olive grove - they are everywhere!


A late start today, Bob’s over indulgence last night has had consequences. Annie up early and sorting out logistics of keeping in touch and managing photos. When we finally get going our walk takes us back to the flagpole atop Marjan Park and Bob finds it a little more challenging second time round.

Today’s adventure is to Solin, about 10 kms from central Split by local bus. We discover that the bus doesn’t go into Solin but stops on the outskirts and we are assisted by the driver regarding the stop to get off and walking instructions. We cross some beautiful bridges over streams that run through grassed areas to a picturesque village centre. Lunch is put on the back burner when we discover that the cafes only serve coffee and drinks and the only alternatives are full blown restaurants which we don’t really want. A quick cheese roll from the bakery on the run and we set of for the ruins of Solarno.

Clearly Bob’s blending in as he is mistaken for a local by a local and asked for directions, very embarrassing on both sides of the conversation. We find a path along the edge of a substantial fence that leads us to the site and the Manastirine, where Bishop Domnio and his followers were buried after being persecuted as Christians. While this is a substantial ruin it was not what Bob was expecting as the major archaeological site it was reported to be. We walked around a little and found a small museum where we could buy tickets to view the rest of the site.

What a site – this was a major settlement, the metropolis of the Roman Empire in Dalmatia. There are ruins of several basilica, an amphitheatre, Thermae (the communal baths) a Tusculum (a college), a forum and a theatrum. Following the ticket seller’s instructions we leave the site from the opposite side, not far from Solin where we started our search. We also discovered during our exploring that the only part of the site that is fenced is where we entered. If we had come in any other way there was no need to pay.

Back to Split by bus where we returned to the apartment to investigate options for further adventures over the next few days and prepare for dinner. In looking at adventures available to us it becomes clear that May is just a little too early in the tourist season if you are independent travellers like us. There are plenty of packaged day trips (9-12 hours) but these really aren’t our thing. Ferries to the islands are running infrequently, not every day and not to all ports. Fortress Klis is only open at weekends, so we have missed out. Plans are made to visit Trogir by public transport and re-visiting the palace, looking through the plazas and visiting the Archaeological Museum.

We stick to our plans to patronise the restaurants and bars in the central plazas and are well rewarded at Zinfandel. We chose this place because unlike most other restaurants we looked at they had an extensive range of wines available by the glass. The young lady who served us was outstanding, chatting about the wine and food combinations and willing to make recommendations which were excellent. Again we are too late getting home to visit Café Choco.



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