|From Ursa we continued on along the mountainous road taking a short jaunt on the freeway and back onto NA 170 to Leitza. We drove through beautiful little villages, neat hedged fields on the way. At Leitza we took the freeway A15 norte to Toloso changing toE 5 to go south to Zumarraga.
This is a beautiful little city with white buildings and red tiled roofs. We climbed themountain to see the 13th century church overlooking the city. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Inside are triangular shaped wooden (oak) beams made without nails. The floor is made of stone from a nearby mountain. If you turn a picture of the church upsidedown, it becomes a boat. It is a world heritage site.....because of the oak beams.
The Virgin Mary above the altar is gold. The church is really quite plain but beautiful. It, too, is on the Camino del Rey.
Next to the church is a restaurant selling tapas. Two became lunch.
Next door is a tourist info center. We wandered in and talked at length with the young lady. She made a reservation for us at Goiko, a pension in Zumaia, a short train ride from San Sebastian.
We took the scenic route norte through Azkoitia, Azpeitia, and Loiola where we stopped to see the monastery dedicated to St. Bartholomew. It is huge with beautiful gardens. It is stone with a large centered dome. From here we went on to Zumaia, found parking and easily found Goiko on the street behind.
Goiko is above a noisy bar. The room is clean. The owner nice. An Irish Basque young man who works in the bar has been very helpful. He suggested we try the 'pintxo pote' for our evening meal. Every Thursday missing the summer months, each bar serves a special pintxo with a drink for E 1.50.
We went for a walk to the beach and discovered the amazing cliffs the tourist info lady had described. They are a geological phenomena called flysch. They are layers of rock like the pages of a book that tell the history of the earth through time. You can see when the dinosaurs died. Some layers are grey, some pink, some are shades of brown. Some resemble fins sticking out of the sand. Some are crevices running into the water. There are caves. There are gold spikes driven in between layers. It is all very interesting.
We then walked out to the point to see the blue lighthouse.
Bar hopping was fun. We went to the busiest bars and joined the locals in trying the special pintxos. The best was the seafood one from the Goiko. We stayed up late and set the alarm.