Really just an overnight stop on the way from Everest to Nepal but a very pleasant valley with a scenic old fort atop a hill which the Chinese have thoughtfully surrounded by concrete and ruined all decent photo-opportunities. Last night of pit toilets and tasteless food before Kathmandu. And now that I have left I can safely say that China makes Nepal (one of the world's poorest countries), look like the height of civilisation. Unfortunately the Tibetans are even less civilised than the Chinese and one of the dirtiest smelliest peoples on the planet. I have lost most of my sympathy for their cause but think that the Chinese statement that they are going to forceably civilise Tibet whether they like it or not is like Oliver Reed promising to teach George Best sobriety (if either of them are still alive that is).