El Peregrinaje de Claudia de 2013 travel blog

Everyone wants storks on their towers -- here are some live ones!

Approaching a town on the meseta, east of León.

Pretty typical scene at an intersection in Carrión de los Condes.

The capital of a column at monastery of San Zoilo en Carrión.

Ceiling of cloister at San Zoilo -- the deep relief carving was...

Playing in the park at Carrión.

This portal over a church door shows various professions.

Along the old Roman Via Aquitania heading to Sahagún.

Teams coming in to cheer on their bull-fighting buddies in Sahagún.

Having fun during the town fiesta. Tomorrow they run with the bulls!


Just so you know, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly on the plain. I have had nothing but strong sun ever since reaching la meseta central, having had rain throughout all the mountain and hilly areas I have been through.

I left Oviedo and stopped in Pola de Lena on my way south to rejoin the Camino Francés. There I walked out to a lovely, tiny little Santa Cristina de Lena church on the edge of a mountain valley. Utterly peaceful.

Train next morning to León where I stayed just long enough to obtain another credencial for pilgrims as mine is getting almost full. Caught another train to small city of Palencia where I spent a few hours checking out some sights. Then, another train to Frómista, tiny town with a fantastic church.

From Frómista, it is a 21 km walk to Carrión de los Condes. If you are familiar with El Cid, you might recall that the Cid married his daughters off to the Condes of Carrión. These scoundrels beat the girls and tied them to trees, leaving them for dead. El Cid rescued them and sent out a party to capture and ensure justice was served upon these horrid men. The Condes are buried in the monastery of San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes, mainly because their family were the funders of the monastery (certainly not because of any saintly behavior on their part)! The daughters ended up marrying princes!

From Carrión, I left at 6:40 a.m. to walk 31 km to a tiny place called San Nicolás del Camino. Today being such a long trek, I pulled out my little iPod Nano and listened to music to keep myself going. Selections for the day were musicals: The Sound of Music, My Fair Lady, Les Miserables and Crazy for You. It is hard to sing decently while hiking at a pace of 2.5-3 miles/hour in the hot sun!

Too tired to walk any further, with blisters and very sore feet, I sat down for a nice lunch around 2:30 p.m. Decided that I wouldn´t be able to walk the final 8 km to Sahagún the next morning, so got a ride into town from the restaurant owner -- no taxis available due to días festivos in Sahagún.

Sahagún is nothing to look at, but they were starting their summer festival, so atmosphere was more upbeat than I suspect it normally is. I went to the Plaza de Toros and saw the locals having a good time playing at bull-fighting. No bulls were injured, but I imagine there are some sore (and hung-over) bull-fighters in Sahagún this morning!

Train this morning to León where I am spending day resting blistered foot by walking around and sight-seeing without a backpack. Tomorrow, another travel day to get me to northwest corner of province of León, where I will start walking again day after tomorrow in final leg to Santiago de Compostela.

Hasta pronto,

Claudia



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