GunnarTravelsTheAmericas & Africa&Asia travel blog

St Lucia, changed hands 14 times between the French and British, since...

The Town of Castries

View over Castries from Mount Pleasant

Arriving in Castries I suspect that to be my hotel...

...and it is, much nicer than I had expected

...with a view over the Petit Carenage and the harbour entrance beyond...

...and a swarm of pure white Egret birds in the bushes

Walking to town you pass this ...no worries...guy. I have to ask...

Big fish in the back, small fish up front

From their demeanour and clipped behaviour it is more than a game...

Game anyone?

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception behind the 400 year old Saman tree...

...with 'ornate interior', 'rich red and diffused yellow light from ceiling portals'

Vivid murals by Duncan St Omer. On 31-12-2000 Rastafarians barged in, killing...

Former Place des Armes with the guillotine during the French Revolution now...

...with St Lucia's other Twin Peaks. Left Derek Walcott Nobel for literature...

West Indian Colonial architecture on Brazil Street

On Mount Pleasant Folk Research Centre 'in between expositions'

On the Atlantic side; view over Dennery and Dennery Bay

...but no sign of the 'large Japanese-funded Daito Complex and Pier fish...

A large 'white elephant' south of Micoud; not all is well in...

Anse de Sables from Cape Moule à Chique on St Lucia's southernmost...

...the Moule à Chique lighthouse intended originally for Saint Lucia Cape in...

The town of Soufrière (after the volcano)

Central square

Along the square...

...catching up

On the harbour front

For a different cruise experience

Diamond Falls & Botanical Garden, just north of Soufrière

Star Burst

Bois Bandé; bark is an aphrodisiac and remedy against impotence

Datura Tree (Angels Trumpet) has psychoactive properties causing 'out-of-body' sensations; extremely toxic.

Aquaduct built in 1765

Les Deux Pitons, a tourist highlight already in the 19th century and...

...World Heritage Site. The Petit Piton, not that 'petit' with 739 metres...

The Gros Piton with 786 metres seen from the south

Les Deux Pitons from the north with Soufrière village in the foreground

Anse La Rey


The Express des Isles catamaran slams into the waves on another rough crossing, this time coming from Martinique across the St Lucia Channel, but after passing Point du Cap on the northern tip of St Lucia the waves abate and soon enough the ferry turns left into Castries harbour bay and, as it slows down, sets lower in the water to dock at the Passenger Ferry Port on the southern end.

I follow the same route as Jacques du Parquet, then French Governor of Martinique, did in 1643 when he established the first French settlement in Soufrière a bit further south of Castries, starting a long battle of dominance over the island between the French and the English, in which St Lucia changed hands no less than 14 times.

I look about the shed we enter coming from the ferry. It looks like an abandoned warehouse now taken over by the border police and customs. I join one of the two queues for the makeshift booths standing somewhat forlorn under the high corrugated iron roof. A striking difference with the modern facility in Fort-de-France and judging from the many suitcases, taped or tied-up cartons, bags that people are bringing in, they have seriously been stocking up in Fort-de-France too.

Having passed the border police you walk alongside a wooden partition and then turn left into another part of the warehouse where a jumble of people and piles of packages are waiting without any apparent organisation behind a line painted on the floor, about four metres from three stations where customs officers are slowly and meticulously opening up all the taped and tied-up packages brought in. Each station has two sides with the officer standing in the middle. When he is ready on one side, he turns to the other one. The person who has been dealt with collects his scattered goods and moves on making room for the next one in line. Indeed, but who is that? I am standing at a little spot I found among the jumble of people. Mind you not waiting in three queues, but spread out along the painted line on the floor and it is completely unclear who’s next. The whole thing is so hopelessly disorganised it becomes comical again. I took a picture for you to see for yourself.

That now, I should not have done. A stern officer, looming with authority, beckons me in front of the crowd and has me humbly delete my picture, before sending me back again to my spot. However, with this new found notoriety nobody in the crowd objects when I walk up to the next spot opening up at the checking station.

The pivotal moment in the British and French colonial fortunes is exemplified in the Treaty of Paris of 1763 which concluded the Seven Years’ War, also known as the French and Indian War. It marked the end of the French presence on the North American continent and sealed British colonial supremacy in the rest of the world (in a strange irony it also bore the seed of American Independence just 13 years later, since the cost of the war was at the root of the imposition of taxes the colonies revolted against). St Lucia and other French islands that had been conquered during the war were restored to France, but by 1814 St Lucia would again become British and remain so until independence in 1979.

The dual French and British heritage makes for a curious mix. All geographical references are French, all institutions are British, the popular language is French Creole and the official one is English.

So, I am staying in the Auberge Seraphin, overlooking the Petit Carenage harbour, plan to drive around the island to visit Vieux Fort, the Soufrière Volcano (yet another one) and St Lucia’s claim to tourist fame: the Gros and Petit Piton (they were quite impressive actually). St Lucia is a member of the Commonwealth (but to be true also of La Francophonie), celebrates Queen Elisabeth the II’s 60-year reign, has a ‘bobby’ police force and a common law based judiciary, that is as British as it gets.

The differences with the French controlled islands are also striking. What infrastructure there is, is crumbling and income levels are about 60% of those on Martinique. Yet there is no sign of the discontent that was so visible on Guadeloupe and Martinique.

On that note, I would say, the needle seems to veer towards the British decolonisation approach.

Time to move on to my last stop on this Caribbean tour, Barbados, which has been uncontested British territory since 1624, to see if under that condition an island fares differently.

Share |