The Champagne Backpacker: Michael's Round the World Trip 2005-2007-- The Adventure of a Lifetime travel blog

View of Istanbul from Galata Tower.

Bodrum, Turkey

All Women Crew From The Previous Week's Sail (l-r:Cengiz, Taylor, Carla, Oytun,...

Jeff and Ed Jordan on the grounds of the Castle of St....

Mike, Ed, and Oytun at the Castle of St. Peter, Bodrum.

The Security Council discuss current world affairs.

Ed, the New Caesar?

Ed, Cengiz, and Jeff discuss the finer points of sailing.

D-Marin Marina, Turgutreis, Turkey

Relaxing poolside at D-Marin Marina, Turgutreis.

Sunset over D-Marin Marina, Turgutreis

Gumusluk (l-r: Jeff, Mike, Eddie, Joanne, Cengiz, Ed)

Cengiz and Jeff get a haircut in the hamlet of Gumusluk.

Wading across to the headlands at Gumusluk.

Gumusluk Harbor

Gumusluk Harbor.

Crew shot: Jeff, Mike, Eddie, Joanne, Cengiz, Ed

Jeff and Cengiz examine dinner aboard Adele.

As Joanne demonstrates, it's hard to enter a dinghy elegantly.

Cengiz, the Turk, demonstrates to Jeff how to play backgammon.

Relaxing in Turkbuku.

Last night in Turkbuku (l-r: Cengiz, Jeff, Eddie, Joanne, Mike).

(See last post from Istanbul)

Sunday, July 3. BODRUM. Joanne arrived at 2 am due to missing luggage. She brought a friend, Eddie, from Australia, which made us a crew of six. They decided to spend the night at the hotel rather than aboard ship. Cengiz learned that this would be their first time sailing. After deciding to take care of obtaining a replacement passport later, Jeff flew out to Bodrum and met us at the hotel. Jeff, Ed, Oytun, and I walked to the Castle of St. Peter at the head of the peninsula guarding Bodrum's double bay. We explored for a couple hours before returning to Artimis.

Monday, July 4. SAIL FROM BODRUM TO TURGUTREIS. We were all happy to leave Bodrum and its throngs of people. We set sail for Turgutreis, taking us on a northwest heading along the Turkish coast. We had mild winds and calm sea which made for a quite enjoyable first sail. Turgutreis has a very nice and relatively new marina called D-Marin. We spent a few days here stocking up on provisions and relaxing by the marina pool.

Wednesday, July 6. SAİL FROM TURGUTREIS TO GUMUSLUK. This was a very short sail to the picturesque small village and harbor of Gumusluk protected by headlands. Jeff and Cengiz decided to get a haircut (plus shave for Cengiz) here. The barbershop was right on the beach. Cengiz and Ed walked to the butcher and purchased some fresh lamb for dinner aboard Adele.

Thursday, July 7. SAIL FROM GUMUSLUK TO TURKBUKU. Our sail from Gumusluk to Turkbuku was a little more difficult than our earlier sails since we did not have a navigational map. To be on the safe side, we sailed further offshore than we would normally do to avoid any reefs or small islands. Upon entry to the Turkbuku harbor, it was apparent that this was a place for the very well to do. Multimillion dollar yachts dwarfed and outnumbered the few sailboats. After anchoring, Cengiz, Ed, Jeff, and I went ashore to do a walkabout. There was pedestrian-only path along the shore with numerous wooden decks jutting out from the small sandy beach across from the beach proprietors—hotels, restaurants, coffee/tea houses, and bars. On the decks, throngs of sunworshipers lazed around on lounge chairs, large cushions, and sofas. At night, many of these decks turned into elegant dining tables for sunset and evening dining. By and large, most of the tourists here were Turks. We decided to have a drink at the Macakizi Hotel on the southern end of the harbor. From the looks of it, the Macakizi Hotel was the most exclusive hotel in Turkbuku. Our seats overlooked the bar with a commanding view of the harbor. I opted for an apple Martini which was excellent. As I scanned the bar, I thought one gentlemen looked vaguely familiar. I told everyone that I thought it was US Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia. Only Jeff and I, two attorneys, seemed to think that it was "Nino" ("Nino" is Scalia's nickname on the bench). After we finished our drinks and were walking out the exit, Jeff said to two women who were also leaving at the same time, "We noticed someone in your party looked a lot like Dino (sic) Scalia." Pointing to her friend, one of the women responded, "This is Mrs. Scalia!"

Friday, July 8. TURKBUKU. Today was a day of relaxing on one of the many decks in Turkbuku. It gave me the opportunity to finish reading The Da Vinci Code, a page turning and brilliant book. I'm looking forward to my stay in Paris to explore the Louvre and other places described in the book. Ed caught a bus to Bodrum and planned to spend a day exploring Istanbul before flying back to the Bay Area. Joanne and Eddie joined us for dinner before catching a bus to Bodrum. They also planned to stop in Istanbul.

Saturday, July 9. SAIL FROM TURKBUKU TO TURGUTREIS. We are down to three sailors: Cengiz, Jeff, and me. We planned to sail to Turgutreis for the final leg of our sailing trip.

Sunday, July 10. TURGUTREIS. Washed clothes, washed self, relaxed by the pool. Cleaned the boat.

Thanks so very much to Cengiz for making our sail in Turkey a wonderful and truly memorable experience. We had a fantastic and fun time! Cengiz is an exceptional sailor, great teacher, and true Turk. Teşekkür ederim, Cengiz.


Cengiz passed away on March 8, 2008. Although I only knew Cengiz from our short sail, we became friends and kept in contact during the remainder of my RTW travels and my visit to New York. I will always remember Cengiz's passion for sailing and indeed life. Every time we made land, the first thing Cengiz wanted to do was grab a cup of Turkish tea (served in tulip glasses), kick back, and relax. Cengiz, I will miss you, my friend, but I know you're in a better place, definitely sipping on a cup of Turkish tea.

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