Karen & Mike 2011: Windmills, Chocolate & Wine travel blog

Lake and buildings, Bruges

Burg Square, Bruges, from top of bell tower

Bells in bell tower


The weather in Bruges (most of Belgium, for that matter) is similar to Seattle: variable, with overcast and showers common, but glorious when the sun shines. During our 4 days in Bruges we experienced it all, although it was more good than bad. While I had noted that Thursday and Friday were sunny and warm, Saturday turned cool and windy - a great day to enjoy the indoor activites in the city. There are a couple of great museums in the city, the best, in our opinion, being the Groeninge. Not only because it is fun and challenging to pronounce (HHHROON-ih-guh), but because of the fabulous paintings from the Flemish masters. Technically these are the "Flemish "Primitives" (from the 1400's), called that because they are old (!) and hadn't yet mastered 3D perspective. However, what they are known for is their detailed work; many of the paintings look like photos, with intricate lace patterns painted by one-hair brushes, jewels that appear to sparkle, reflections in surfaces of goblets, and wrinkles and warts that people today pay good money to have air-brushed out!  The works are truly fascinating to observe.  

Following visits to the Church of Our Lady, over 600 years old and 400 feet tall (tallest in the Low Countries) and containing a sculpture of the Madonna by Michelangelo, along with another museum, the afternoon was for touring the last remaining brewery in Bruges, maker of Brugse Zot.  The name means "Fool of Bruges" because the way people act after consuming too much of this really good, light 6% beer.  However, if that isn't enough, the do have other brews ranging all the way up to 11% alcohol!  The tour includes a tall glass of the Zot.

Sunday was a jumping day in this town.  Street festivals and musicians in every square (still not sure why!) and a great time to explore more of the wonderful buildings, quiet parks, small museums, and even do laundry (one of the necessities of only bringing a carry-on each; limited wardrobe!). However, the day started by climbing the bell tower on the town square. 366 steps and 250 feet later, the views were stunning. We did start down when the 11 o'clock bells started. Those big bells are really loud when your standing about 5 feet away! Or last evening in this wonderful town gave us a chance to confirm that Belgium has more varieties and brands of beer than any country in the world, and many people consider the beers here the best.  While Karen is not typically a beer drinker, even she was won over!  We tasted bees raining from a sweet, red raspberry beer (3%), to a couple of lighter blondes (beers! 5-6%), to an amber "triple" (8%), to a dark Trappest beer (10%).  The Trappest beers are made by monks and are fabulous.  The St. Bernardus we had was rich but not bitter.  Karen even ordered her own.  It will be tough to drink American beers when we get home (although, I'm sure I'll try!)

Today we left Bruges and made our way to Reims, France.  The high-speed trains are a marvel! 180mph, smooth and quiet.  (editorial note: not having these in the US is a shame!  Easier, cheaper and often faster than flying.) anyway, back to the trip. Reims is in the middle of champagne country and also marks the beginning of our tour, as well as the switch from beer to wine.  We are looking forward to a great time, although, since our tour in Turkey last year was so good it may be hard to meet those expectations. It will be fun to find out!

I should point out that, as I was typing this on the iPad, we had the opportunity to talk to Sean "face to face", live using the FaceTime app. Really cool! No lag, good video. The iPad is turning out to be great travel tool. - useful and fun! If anyone else has an iPhone or devise with that app, let us know! Talk soon (maybe literally!)



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