2011 Hogarths on the move again - to places afar travel blog


Awake at dawn and we climb part way up the dunes to see the sun rise.

Our camp site a sight to be seen – empty bottles everywhere, blankets and swags sprawled about – quite obvious that we had a VERY good night.

We tidy up as best we can, pack our bags and hop back on our camels. This time David and I swap and I have a much more enjoyable ride back to the Auberge. It is then I realise I have a bruise the size of an orange on my thigh from the previous evenings ride.

Whilst on the subject of oranges – they are simply superb. Large, fresh and so sweet – we cannot get enough of them.

Back on our bus we head off to our next destination – Todra Gorge.

We leave the sand dunes behind and travel through dry land with many oasis and Berber villages – the villages sometimes seem quite empty. We see many a donkey pulling a cart or loaded with produce or firewood or just carrying kids. Few horses or mules.

We finally arrive at our auberge for the night. Nestled beside a narrow stream between sheer cliffs rising over 1000 feet. Many families picnicking and children bathing. Some are abseiling or climbing the walls of the cliffs.

We have a late lunch and a rest (wonder why we are tired) before setting off for an evening walk.

This time through the small farm holdings. Broad beans, coriander, Lucerne, parsley and celery. Cabbage plants have been left for seed and mint has just been planted. There are fig and peach trees, pomegranate and walnut trees. The women are loading up their donkeys with the days harvest and heading off for home. Water races run through the whole area, the neighbours take turns. The kids hassle us for ‘bon bons’ or money.

Atika shows us the well and unfortunately the rope comes off the pulley – a couple of attempts to fix and finally the ‘farmer’ does the job.

The women in this area wear a white or pastel wrap tied on one shoulder like the Greeks used to wear.

We climb through some of old houses following narrow lane ways – as usual all the houses are mud brick. These houses require resurfacing every two years. Many of these villages in Morocco are UNESCO listed and funds are provided to help with the maintenance. New suburbs of Todra are now being built of brick. This means that air-conditioning and heating now have to be included. This is not necessary in the mud brick homes.



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