Pontevedra, i.e Old BridgeOct 8, 2010
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| We leave beautiful Leon to go to Santiago de Compestela. Spain (well the EU) has spent millions of Euros on a super highway system that is in construction for hundreds of miles – everyday we spend at least 10 Euros on toll roads. Today, going into higher elevations, we go into areas of brilliant sunshine to dark clouds and rain – pine trees and stands of eucalyptus trees. The freeway has frequent gold on blue signs with the symbol of the pilgrimage route – a field of stars. As we approach, we see a huge sprawling city and literally thousands of strata housing units – we are in gridlock as bad as the worst in Los Angeles, immediately. Everywhere we see people in the rain, in their ponchos with backpacks and walking sticks – their eyes seem glazed, as are ours. Drivers are aggressive and rude – streets are narrow as we attempt to find our hotel. As the crowds get greater we realize we have entered what might be described as a religious theme park for believers. Centuries ago, criminals were sentenced to do penance by walking the camino, a walk, for the medieval faithful, from prince to peasant, converged here to pay homage to the third most important religious site in the world. Mark does the math and figures an average of 7,000 people a day pass through. After much time of trying to push through traffic and tourists, Linda wants to pass by going into the place where St. James is buried. It does not feel special, or spiritual. We try a hotel that is out of town and still can’t find a two days stay. Needles to say we are disappointed. We decide to make lemonade and go on to Pontevedra, about 45 minutes south. At this old Spanish city, we again find ample evidence that the world is becoming too crowded. But, we locate a reasonable hotel and learn that this is a long holiday weekend in Spain – a special one – Columbus Day and hotels are booked as its Spain’s national holiday. This calls for a bit of creative thinking so we decide to go to Portugal for the weekend. Plans made, we walk into the Old City and find delightful cobbled streets with charming shops – and, NO souvenirs. It is refreshing. The sky has opened and it is pelting rain. We find a nice café that serves both coffee and beer for a needed respite. And afterwards, we find a number of nice stores, one that sells cheese knives – very Spanish so we buy a collection. Then to local SuperMercado for dinner supplies and next dinner in our hotel room that posts three stars, but we give it a one-and-a-half. But what the hell, we are having fun. |
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