We arrived in Praia about one hour delayed, at about 2 a.m. We paid CVE 2,000 for the taxi ride to the Aparthotel Holanda
- CVE 1,000 would be normal at night, but we were just too tired to bargain.
After a couple hours of sleep, we got ready for our flight to Fogo and took a taxi back to the airport (CVE 600 during the day). The schedule had changed in the meantime so that we had a few hours to spend the Plato.
We walked up and down the streets, looked into a few small stores. The museum was closed, the famous Cafe Sofia was full, and Greg didn't feel very comfortable in the crowded market. We found a wonderful nameless roof-top cafe where we had our first Cape Verdean beer. A nice, elderly German couple approached us and told us they just got mugged in Boa Vista, so we knew we had to be a little more careful than we thought.
TACV gave us meal vouchers for messing up the schedule, so we had cachupa at the airport.
A few words on domestic flights: We were on four TACV flights, and all of them were exactly 50 minutes delayed. Still, it is highly recommended to be there 90 minutes before scheduled departure, because check-in takes a while. Nobody cares about what liquids or stuff you bring on the plane though. Praia actually does have X-ray machines, but we saw them in operation only once (when the president was on the plane). Once you arrive at your destination, there is staff checking your baggage tags to make sure you didn't pick up someone else's bags.
Once we arrived in Fogo, a taxi driver with a sign from our B&B picked us up. The road there is pretty bad, so we had to change cars once. We stayed with Roberto at the B&B Tortuga
. Heaven! Paradise! It's a little outside of Sao Filipe (which I consider an advantage), Roberto is such a sweetheart (although Italian...), the food is organic, and hot water and electricity come from solar panels. By the time we arrived there, we only had time to go to the beach for a little while and then had dinner with Roberto. He offers a selection of mouth-watering appetizers, the dish of the day and delicious Italian desert for CVE 1,400.