World Argentina Mendoza Mendoza

Cancun to Cape Horn 2009

Argentina - Part 1 Nov 1, 2009

ARGENTINA - PART 1 (Teneale)

Iguaza Falls

There was no better way to begin our Argentinean experience, than standing at the Devils Throat of Iguaza Falls with millions of litres of water cascading into a smoking abyss. We complained about the rain in Brazil, however the upside to the torrential downpours we experienced, was that the Iguaza Falls had 14 times more water than normal. This resulted in the most unforgettable experience at the falls.

Defying all laws of gravity and force, there are walk–ways along the falls which provide the most unbelievable views of the widest waterfall in the world. At many times you are standing at the edge of the falls looking at the gushing water roaring over the edge. It was impossible not to get mesmerized watching the torrents of water!

As if that view wasn’t enough, we caught a powerful speed-boat up the river and into the actual falls. We knew we when in for a rough and wet ride when the captain donned a head to toe waterproof suit! Even the ride upstream was exhilarating as we conquered rapids and bounced our way closer to the deafening waterfall. The falls were so strong that even when we were 50 metres away the spray was so powerful that you couldn’t even open your eyes. The memory that stands out the most is all 6 of us screaming “Otro! Otro!” (again in Spanish) as the captain once again drove us back into the plummeting water!

Mendoza

With the reputation of red wine and beef preceding it, we had high expectations arriving in Mendoza. Matt Evans would have been devastated if the Malbec was “average” and the beef had been overrated! But fortunately Mendoza not only exceeded its reputation but provided us with hours of laughter, barrels of wine and unforgettable memories.

Our introduction to wine was at Vines of Mendoza which is an exclusive wine tasting venue in the city. Matt’s enthusiasm overwhelmed him and he arrived an hour before the rest of us to ensure that he got in some pre-match practice. That night, we all managed to perfect the art of the 3 steps of tasting, the colour, the aromas, and our favourite: the tasting. Although after the 4th wine, all wine tasted excellent to us!

We became wine connoisseurs in the next few days as we toured the Maipu and Lujan valleys. We stayed at a beautiful B&B in the heart of Maipu valley on a vineyard and olive farm. We spent a number of days on wine tours, some of which were more successful than other. Our wine tour on bikes only lasted 2 farms. This could be a result of 2 factors: 1) John and I were on a tandem or 2) we enjoyed the wine and grass lawns of the first “bodega” so much that only 1 was still open when we left!

We also spent Pete’s birthday wine tasting- an appropriate way to spend one’s birthday when you are in one of the wine capitals of the world! We met the legendary Carmello Patti, who personally hosted our tasting of his award winning champagne and Cabernet Savignon. We also visited Pulenta, where we expertly tasted a world class 5 grape-blend red wine!

However our record of tour was when we innocently headed out for a Sunday stroll in the vineyards and were corrupted by Matt who insisted we visit JUST one wine farm. All we know is that at the end of the night there were 18 empty bottles of red wine. We are still investigating who the 6 culprits were!

The other vital element of Mendoza is the beef. Settling for nothing but the best, we dined at the famous Don Mario which serves gigantic perfected sirloins, “bife de Chorizo”! It is not hard to believe that on average, an Argentinian eats over 75kg of beef per year! Our beef experienced was topped off with an unforgettable “asado” (braai in Argentina) hosted exclusively for Pete’s birthday at one of the idyllic vineyards.

We celebrated John’s birthday while we were in Mendoza too. With a round of golf on a course surrounded with vineyards, John was in his element. I am not sure if Matt and Robbie let the birthday boys win or if Pete and John were just a formidable team on the day! What I do know is that they won 6 and 5 and that Matt was in a terribly foul mood afterwards! J We carried on the celebration and Matt’s last night at an amazing bistro. We were all surprised when most of the girls who took us on our wine tastings arrived at the restaurant with a few of their single friends. It is still under dispute whether it is Robbie’s charm, John’s blonde locks or Pete’s red beard that enticed them to come! The wine once again flowed steadily and we all got home just in time for the Youngest Bull (Matt) to make his flight home!

Quemquemtreu Ranch (San Martin de los Andes)

It is no wonder why Martin’s ranch is voted one of the 1000’s places to visit before you die. Picture 80 00o hectares of rolling hills and valleys, the snow capped Andes as a backdrop, 5000 heads of cattle, over 300 horses grazing in pastures lined with poplar trees and 2 magnificently groomed polo fields and you might begin to imagine the beauty that is Quemquemtreu Ranch.

We were hosted by Martin and his family who generously looked after us for a few days. We felt indebted when we arrived at our own chalet to find a fire burning and an “asado” waiting! We really got to experience ranch life – from walking in the pastures to checking on the breeding polo horses and even a hand-gun target practice with Martin’s 11 year old son! The boys were even courageous enough to brave the 2 degree water to fly fish! Pete held the shortest record, with surviving a mere 30 seconds in the ice cold water. He does however have the handicap that over 80% of his body’s length is legs and his heart has trouble at the best of times pumping blood to his toes!

There was also no better way to be introduced to the Patagonian cold than a run at sunrise. The temperature and frostbite was made bearable as the scenery was picturesque. As we made our way along an endless dirt road, we were met by lots of wild hares, a shy armadillo, a few graceful red deer and inquisitive young colts.

We had an exceptional few days and I won’t readily forget standing on one of the “koppies” with John watching the sunset over the valley with last rays of the sun just illuminating the tops of the poplar trees!

So far we are addicted to Argentina. We are more than adequately adapting to afternoon siestas, sunsets at 8pm and endless supply of red wine.

Stay tuned because in our next our edition we will discover whether Robbie, the hairy little hobbit’s beard is out-growing Pete’s and if it is turning red like his brothers!