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Cancun to Cape Horn 2009

Brazil Oct 17, 2009

We have had four awesome weeks in Brazil, discovering the people, the wildlife, the love of football and the beautiful coastline. We were also met with a new language which has been interesting and amusing at times! We have only been able to get a taste of what Brazil has to offer, but we have very special memories of our time and we hope that we will be able to come back and see the rest of it!

Bonito (Teneale)

After the notorious ¨Death Train¨ and numerous buses, we finally arrived in Brazil! Our first stop in Brazil was a little town in the mid-west of Brazil called Bonito. Bonito is well known for it´s fresh water rivers that are crystal clear and brimming with fish. This offers the perfect opportunity to don a wetsuit and idly snorkel downstream! It feels so different to be in fresh water snorkeling but it is awesome to see underwater springs, schools of fishes and a hysterical Japanese tourist! The Jap kept us entertained and in stitches as he kept crashing into bushes on the side of the river banks. We would all swim ahead just to watch the inevitable crash and his reaction as he hit his head for the ump-teenth time!

We also had our first taste of Brazil´s wildlife when we visited a sinkhole that is famous for macaws. We had some amazing views of over 30 red and green macaws. We got to see them fairly closely and we were all in awe as they flew from one perch to another in the hole, all the while ¨chatting¨ avidly!

It was Pipsy´s birthday while we were there and we made sure we celebrated it in true Bonynge style with a dress up party! We earned many a look from fellow back-packers as we strolled around the hostel in speedo´s, leopard print hot pants, and a dress made purely from tinfoil!

Pantanal (John)

We met the bouncy dwarf just outside the Pantanal, in Ciuaba. We were all hell of a excited to get into the Pantanal and find jaguars and just as amped to have the little dwarf with us again. Having caught a bus to the border town of the Pantanal we were collected by an open air 4x4. We ran off to buy a couple cases of beer, loaded up the luggage and soon were on our way into the heart of the Pantanal. It was awesome! It felt like being in the bush at home as we drove through the bird and caiman ridden wetlands. Beers in the hand, sun on our faces and wind in our hair! Stomps´ and my enthusiasm was infectious and soon we even had Youngaast looking at birds! We couldn't have been any happier!

Our first nights accommodation at the Pantanal Wildlife centre was complete luxury! We watched the sunset from the ease of our swimming pool and then enjoyed a 5 star meal and an air conditioned room! The following day we took a 4 hour drive and then another 1 hour boat ride. We were in the heart of the jungle!

The JRC (Jaguar Research Centre) is a world famous resort and one of the only places in the world that guarantee jaguars! Stomps, as a professional ranger, had been asked to evaluate the resort and the methods adopted by the JRC. We were all too happy to join him. Check out the video at this link [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzDUsGW5OHI&feature=related]).

Things kicked off with a big bang! Wilson, the alpha male jaguar, weighing about 150 kgs had been spotted! We dropped everything, jumped into the smaller speed boats and flew up stream to find him! We were not disappointed! 20 minutes later we had a massive, massive male 5 metres from our boat! We sat is silence! Hearts in our mouths, goosebumps galore! I never in wildest dream actually thought we´d see Jaguars!(You can find a video of him at this link - [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBNVysH_Is] go to video 3/7 to see him killing a caiman, ironically very close to where we saw him! )

As the sun set so the biting insects increased. Slowly we were getting eaten alive! Hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of mosquito's swarmed our every movement! T got eaten alive! Youngaast became demented by the bites and soon refused to speak to any one!

After supper we thought we´d retire to our accommodation. The owner threw down a plank onto the shore and strode off the house boat and into the jungle. At first we thought he was joking when he jumped up the river bank and disappeared! Reluctantly we followed. 30 metres into the jungle we came across our 2 man tents. Holes had been carved out of the jungle with pangas! The holes had been filled with 2 man tents. Welcome to your home for the next 3 nights. I thought T might cry but she just quietly got into the tent and zipped up the door to try stop more insects following us into our home! We tried to sleep but it was boiling, insects were carrying our tent away and we were squeezed onto a small mattress on the floor. T fell asleep with her leg against the tent door, the next morning she had over 40 bites on her foot! It was a tough night! BUT we survived and seeing the jaguars was worth every second of it!

A cold front moved in over the next 2 days. This scared both the insects and the jaguars away. I think the girls were happy with that arrangement. We continued to comb the river banks and still saw great birds, millions of caiman's, capabari´s and even some giant otters BUT no more jaguars. Our last day dawned and we went on our last drive, nothing! Some what down heartened we headed back to civilisation. I wasn´t gonna give up (and nor was Rooks, my faithful fellow spotter!) and even as we sped down the river we kept our eyes peeled!

Suddenly I saw movement on the far bank, I couldn't be certain but I screamed `Jaguar!`. I pointed to the spot and the driver veered off towards the jaguar. At first I couldn't see anything but then to our utter joy we saw the movement again! Lying on the river bank was a female jaguar with her 2 cubs! Jackpot! It was honestly one of the best moments of my life. We had the jaguars completely to ourselves. The female was in perfect condition and the one cub was so inquisitive that he sat for about 20 minutes watching us and patrolling the bank!

Every one was on cloud nine! We had started and ended our tour with a bang, the jungle had repaid us for all our efforts! Suddenly the 41 hour bus trip that we were facing seemed do-able!

Rio de Janeiro (Teneale)

We couldn´t have timed our time in Rio any better as we arrived the day they announced that Rio had won the Olympic bid for 2016. This meant that every Brazilian was in the mood for a party and we were just as keen! After purchasing bright yellow ¨Brazil¨ vests we had drinks along the famous Copacabana beach front. The party carried on at our vibey Mellow Yellow hostel. John got side-tracked in his usual drunken style and ended up having a deep and meaningful chat with the local flower seller down the road. Not wanting the night to end Pips and I bravely headed to a famous Rio street party called Lapa. We had such fun learning how to samba, sitting on the famous Ipanema stairs and even ended up in a gay club!

Rio is a phenomenally beautiful city (even rivals Cape Town!)! There are so many beaches and bays to explore and everyone is outdoors enjoying the sun and sea! Keeping with Brazilian culture, we played a few competitive games of beach volleyball. With the sun setting and a view of Sugar Loaf, you could ask for a more perfect location! The Christ statue is synonymous with Rio, offering one of the most famous and picturesque views of the city. The statue is humbling, it is so massive. Robbie Goldsworthy aptly said ¨Imagine if Jesus was actually this big, it would be hard to chat!¨

Football is like a religion in Brazil and any trip would be incomplete without watching a match.We were fortunate enough to catch one of the biggest derby games of 2 of the local club sides, Flamengo versus Fluminense, at the world famous Marcana Stadium. The Flamengo fans were out in force and being seated amongst the team´s fans, we suddenly became ardent Flamengo supporters! With a record crowd of 82 000 people, we had the experience of a life time. 90% of the crowd are draped in Flamengo paraphernalia and the crowd sings, jumps and dances constantly. We couldn´t help but join in and before long we were all jumping on our seats singing ¨Vamos Flamengo¨ at the top of our voices. When Flamengo scored a goal, it was the equivalent excitement of winning a World Cup. Swinging tops around our heads like true Brazilians, hugging other supporters and screaming Flamengo, it was a lesson for ¨Jan, Player 23¨!

Our time in Rio was topped off by hang-gliding over the beaches and Rio. We all hesitantly signed up for tandem-flights and there were definitely some jitters as we stood on the top of hill in the midst of the clouds, surveying the platform that we had to run and jump off! The weather was a bit overcast and so we had to wait for brief moments when the cloud cover lifted a few metres and we were given the all clear to jump! John bravely went first, with Rouxie, Stompie and I close behind. The feeling when you run straight off the platform and then are gliding effortlessly in the air is exhilarating! Not to be cliche, but it is the closest feeling any human will come to flying! As my instructor and I glided silently over the bustling city and beaches, I was on a complete high. The adventures that we have done this year only continue! The excitement when we landed on the beach was evident in the 4 of us who babbled away about what we had seen, the feeling as we lifted and our exciting landings! We then got to watch the other 4 (Pete, Robbie, Pips and Matt) gliding over head and their excitement when they landed. The best landing was Pipsy´s as her instructor landed purposefully on Matt and I taking photo´s of them!

We absolutely loved Rio! From runs along Copacabana, Haviannas, strawberry fruit shakes, the Mellow Yellow jacuzzi and flaming zambuccas with Robbie,our memories will always filled with fun!

South coast of Brazil (John)

Ilha Grande

The idyllic and secluded island was just what the crew needed after a busy and boozy Rio. Our hostel located on the waters edge looked out over the tranquil ocean. The atmosphere was uber chilled. We used the time for some running, surfing, volleyball and relaxing but the highlight of the stay was undoubtedly stompi´s farewell party!

We each put any 5 garments of our clothing into a box, mixed then up and blindly chose our outfits for the night! We then drew names from a hat and the aim was to get that persons clothes by the end of the night. It was hilarious! Stomps ended up with a bright red speedo, beanie, 2 socks and snow jacket on! Rooks had 1 sock, bikini bottoms, g string, crop top and golfing hat on! She was not impressed BUT rules are rules! We all looked like fools!

The night went from strength to strength! Stomps did a fantastic job as our fines master and we sang and clapped and laughed and sang and laughed! We were literally crying with laughter when stomps, clad only in a red speedo g string, became an altar boy! He grabbed the candle off our table and paraded around the restaurant, eventually picking a table of Aussie girls to sing `Silent Night`to! The silhouette of a g-string clad alter dwarf serenading sweetly was far too much! The whole place was in fits of laughter! ( A tribute to his singing and bum was the attempt by one of the Aussie girls to try and kiss him later that night! ) It was a night of epic proportions. I ended up in a nuns outfit, Robbie met the girls of his dreams, rooks sang `Tom Newby`, T squeeked her way into the heart of the manager, red stuff tried to molest a nun, stompi serenaded and while all this mayhem unfolded yougaast and pips continued to look endlessly into each others eyes.

Trinidade:

We stumbled upon the most awesome serene spot in Brazil! Stomps´ stay had left us exhausted, that little man has energy! We chilled in the rain forest setting, hiked to waterfalls, bird watched, surfed, ran and just took life easy. Trinidade is absolutely beautiful and we loved our stay there.

Ilha do Mel:

This tiny island was our last stop with Pipsy! It was beautiful and we were the only gringo´s on the island. Unfortunately the weather continued to play havoc and we only got one sunny day. However we used it! We took on the locals in some footie (and won) and then headed down to the beach for Pipsy´s final sunset in Brazil! Of course we gave her a great farewell night!

Floranopolis:

The weather continued to be terrible, but we still decide to head to Praia Moles, Florenopolis. We continued to chill out and relax as we detox in anticipation of Mendoza (Argentina).

As another journal entry comes to an end, it is amazing to think that we have been away for over 5 months! We look forward to Argentina!