Manmade canals run down the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. From Tortuguero to Puerto Viejo was a three-hour journey through rainforest cloaked in rain, with only occasional stops to drop people off or unsnag the propeller.
Everyone says what a cool place Puerto Viejo is, but from where I was sitting, dampness was more of a feature. It was chucking it down like it can only do in the tropics, hitting the tin roofs hard enough that you had to raise your voice to be heard. During briefs lulls I managed to get my chores (laundry etc) done and get to a restaurant near the hostel without drowning (just), but there was no way I was going out after that. Instead I made friends with a bunch of the local lads by the simple method of sitting at a table in the hostel bar with a book and a bottle of rum. An amusing evening was had by all, though I'm afraid one of them went home disappointed. This particular character was clearly wondering whether his luck would extend beyond free rum. He kept talking about how he didn't want to get went on the way home and even took his shirt off to show me his surfer's shoulders. But somehow, when I went to get a beer- a bottle of rum doesn't last long when you're as popular as me- I got snagged in another conversation at the bar and, well, when I checked back about an hour later, he had gone. And next morning, being a cynic who didn't belive the repeated predictions of sunshine soon, so was I.
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