World Croatia Vis

Renee & Dale's Croatian Adventure

Vis-Day 2 Sep 13, 2009

***May need to run through two sets of photos - there should be 12, but it seems to show first 6 then second 6...****

A little info on our hotel, the San Giorgio. This hotel until a few months ago was called Hotel Paula or "Villa Paula", and it was written up as a lovely boutique hotel, family-owned and operated...recommended by Frommer, Fodor, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide...

This is the place I wanted when I was researching the island, and it happened to be where Alan recommends when he makes arrangements for guests in Vis.

A few months ago, I checked out Hotel Paula's website and I was redirected to Hotel San Giorgio, it says new owner, new management. Oh well - here we come!

When we arrived Friday, it was 9pm, and we were promptly greeted by Sandra. She knew we were coming, and she seemed nice enough. She promptly collected our passports, didn't say anything about the hotel or its ameninites (the place looked beautiful, set on both sides of a cobblestone walkway, outdoor restaurant set with candles...but no people anywhere).

She led us to a contemporary, clean room - so all was good. We just needed to find dinner, and we were going to venture back into town for that. So we figured we'd form more of an opinion on the new ownership later. Sandra did tell us we were the only guests, so I immediately questioned that, and she said others were coming Saturday. She told us that normally we'd have buffet breakfast, but since we are the only ones, it will be whatever we want to order. She asked what time we wanted breakfast, and I told her 8am.

From our room, before we went to dinner Friday night, we could see the pretty outdoor restaurant tables, set within historic crumbling walls with no rooftops. Such potential. But again, no people. We could see Sandra sitting at a table smoking, hanging out with the guy who helped with our bags.

Saturday morning we could see Sandra sitting outside smoking, hanging out with a couple other people who appear to work at the hotel. We guessed that with no guests, they all just sat smoking. We decided they are all waiting to provide breakfast for the only guests, so we felt a pressure to be on time - weird on vacation. We were offered eggs, fruit, bread, yogurt, coffee. We said yes to all, but no yogurt. We got all plus yogurt :-) With the coffee, he asked if we wanted espresso. Dale said yes, I said coffee with hot milk (this has been making sense along the way, but confused our waiter - but he brought it). Everything was fine, except for the scrambled eggs - they were incredibly salty - so much so we really couldn't eat them. No big deal - we've gained so much weight on this trip, missing a meal wouldn't kill either of us.

Spent our Saturday as we described in the last update....this story has a point, promise - and it's really for our own recollection of events, so I'm sorry if it's boring!

Never saw other guests Saturday evening, but we were barely there. Three other restaurants right around the corner all thriving, an Aussie wedding party in town, but ours did no advertising. The few hotel workers just sit around and smoke, and we were afraid of the chef's (lack of) skills after the salty eggs. So we went back into Vis Town for dinner and called it a night.

That brings us to Sunday 9/13 - we are expecting that buffet because now there are other guests, and we can avoid the salty egg thing - get an early start. There is another couple already seated - yea! More guests! German, I think. So our waiter comes over, same offers as yesterday, so we are getting that it's not buffet, and we order the same thing (I know, why order the eggs again?? Just seemed easier - English was a challenge and we haven't mastered much in Croatian).

He asks Dale if he wants espresso, and before I can speak, he asks if I want capuccino. I'm thinking this is an easier way for him to understand the coffee with hot milk thing, so I say yes. The eggs are better, all is good. We finish and get ready to walk out for the day. He comes over and he is speaking Croatian, but obviously apologetic and upset about something. We come to understand that he needs to charge us for espresso and capuccino. 33 kuna ($6-$7). We think this is odd because we weren't charged the day before, and he keeps apologizing, but since we don't have small change, Dale signs a receipt for it. A B&B, but you need to pay for coffee. We almost got the feeling that he was supposed to charge the day before and may have gotten in trouble for not doing so.

We start walking from Kut to Vis Town to rent a car for the day. A few minutes out, Dale realizes he probably needs his passport to do the rental, so we head back. He talks to a woman who is not Sandra, and she is abrupt with him, wanting to know where he's renting the car from, telling him the the hotel arranges this, would have it delivered (although we would never know that because they've told us nothing about the hotel, and the only info in the room is a LONG list of rules!).

She does go into the back room, slams the door to the office, and comes out and gives him the passport. He then asks to pay the 33 kuna coffee bill, and she says he has to do it later. We know we are leaving at 6:30a on Monday, so we need to bust out my passport too and pay the bill, but they won't allow us to accomplish this yet.

Later, in town...

We got a little Fiat Punta convertible from Pero, the man who dropped us at the hotel Friday night. He runs the main travel office in Vis Town, and asked what we thought of the hotel. We were honest, said the place is beautiful, has fantastic potential, but the management seemed off. He explained that his office makes recommendations and they've been concerned since the change in ownership. I asked what happened to the Paula, and he said they sold to a company that actually has a vinoteka (wine shop) and small inn on the other side of the island, but that they do no advertising, do not run that well either. That made sense, since we are staying in one property, don't know anything about the property that we are at, and have no idea they have another.

For those of you that know Dale and I have had a dream of running a B&B, this is just aggravating. The real estate of the San Giorgio is incredible, and it's going to be run into the ground. Such a shame...

Back to our doings on Sunday...

Again, avoided the scooter because rain threatened. Convertible, the next best option! We headed off to Komiza, the fishing port on the other side of the island, with the top down. We spent a couple hours walking around the harbor, the back streets, bought our picnic supplies (the most ever spent on cheese and olives - even more expensive than Vis Town!) and watched the weather continue to grow more threatening. We got to car before the rain started, and this now meant all of our beachy destinations were probably not going to be open. It was getting pretty windy too. Top came up!

We did the circle of the island, very hilly and beautiful - saw lots of vineyards, but absolutely no livestock, which seemed strange to me.

We decided to find the George the Third Fortress, which we attempted to find the day before on foot but took a wrong path. Much easier in the mighty Punta! This fortress was built in 1811, and it is not protected by anyone or anything - you can walk all around it, in it, on it, and it's remarkably well preserved!

Rain was really coming down at this time, so we decided to ditch the picnic idea, return the car, and hole up in the one pizza place open midday (open air, but warmer because of the ovens). This place is open because people are waiting for the ferry and the fisherman can't fish in the heavy weather...but they CAN drink! We shared a pizza and couple of beers, and waited for a break in the rain. By the way, in case you are wondering, Casino Royale* was still in port. We imagined the CR-ers in a hot tub, sipping champagne, oblivious to the weather.

*Later, walking by, the crane was lifting the Vespas back onto the top deck.

We then went to the internet cafe (with the most archaeic equipment ever), spent under an hour sending our update, and we came out to a brighter sky and a changed quay/riva. We probably had 5 sailboats and 1 Casino Royale before pizza and internet, and now had upwards of 80 sailboats in Vis Town and 30 or so in Kut's harbor. How long were we in there??? Did we really just have one beer??

It was amazing - this tiny little harbor town overrun by what appeared to be charted boats. We started to ask around and learned that was exactly what it was. They start charters (seeing boats from Sibenik, Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, etc) on Saturday, and they get to Vis Sunday afternoon. Maybe more than there would have been because the storm blew them in, but the shops and restaurants say this is a weekly occurrence on Sunday.

Dale picking up the narrative...

...On the way back to the hotel (to get Renee's passport and clear the tab for the am coffee), we caught Karlo's eye (waiter from the previous evening) and he called us over. Did we have plans for dinner? We'd intended to try another place...but last night was soooooo durn good...Sure...let's get a table! Great says Karlo...that calls for a celebration...fig liqueur all around! Zivjeli!!! (Cheers!!!) We drink up, bid him adeiu, and we are off the hotel.

Ahhhhhh... the enchanting Hotel San Georgio... Sandra is back. Got Renee's passport without issue. Did we need a ride to the port? Nope. All set with Pero. I asked about the breakfast tab...for the coffee...at the B&B. No problem...no additional charges...we're all set. (Stay tuned...this will come up again, promise!)

Cleaned up and then headed out on the town for the evening. Sooooo many boats in town. Beautiful sunset over the harbor, following the storm - sky clearing. Made our way back to Kantun and Karlo for dinner. We were shown immediately to our table and found ourselves in the 'American section'...the entire US west coast was represented...Washington, Oregon...and us from California. Sun had set...and then the rain started to fall again...the wind to blow...very cozy inside with the grill nearby, candles everywhere. Music is playing, and it's all big band standards. Besides the three Americano tables, we had German, Croatian and Aussie company.

We ordered...and the lights flickered...hmmmmmm... It's okay, we think...Kantun is proud of the fact that they grill all of their food over an open hearth, which is what's making it so durn cozy, and we'll have no worries if the power goes out! We waited on our meal...and another flicker...then...lights out. Very beautiful inside...candle-lit...cozy...and since all was grilled...the food is still comin'!

The lights came on after a half-hour or so...but we enjoyed the ambience while the storm held court...hard to imagine on an island, but all power out, EXCEPT the lights (a lot of them) on the Casino Royale and the other sailboats. If we had not picked the romantic candlelit restaurant, we'd be in the dark.

Now the town is dark, dark, dark. Except for the lone ferry coming in, which was a strange thing to see. We knew he had radar, but it just makes you wonder how anyone knows where they are going when the port is out of power.

Another wonderful evening...and back to the hotel, bed and the ferry in the morning.