Rila Mountains and Monastery

Our stay in Plovdiv was wet, but the rain did not keep us from admiring the city's treasures: Thracian ruins ( ), one of the best preserved Roman Amphitheaters in the world and smack in the middle of downtown, a section of a Roman Stadium which held 30K spectators! The rest of the stadium is buried under old city buildings from the middle ages.

Next we traveled further West to Sofia, the Bulgarian capitol. Grand old buildings (St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Banya Boshi Mosque and Synagogue of Sofia) made us overlook the communist era grey-concrete buildings that one sees everywhere in Bulgaria. Also the ongoing construction of a new METRO cut through the middle of the old city adding noise and dust. Our favorite site in Sofia is the well preserved St George's Rotunda (IVth Cent.) built on the ruins of Roman baths. What Lidia likes best was the fact that people from 3 major religions have their place of worships within meters and there is no sense of hostility in the area.

We left our bags at our hotel in Sofia to visit what our guide book described as the best hiking and scenery in Bulgaria: the thickly forested mountains of Rila. This area also houses the Rila Monastery designated as a world patrimony site by UNESCO. Most people hire a private guide and make a day trip from Sofia. We of course decided to go at it alone traveling with the locals in the only bus that makes the trip everyday. The bus serves as transport to the locals and a handful of very young back packers. When we entered the monastery we were overwhelmed by the exotic beauty and monumental size of what Bulgarians described as the "Spiritual and Nationalistic Heart of Bulgaria". This is the only place where Bulgarians kept their religion and language while they endured foreign occupations; from 1100 till 1993, except for short durations. We had planned to stay one night in the area, but when we found out we could stay in one of the monastary's cells, we went monastically crazy and asked the monk if we could stay 3 nights. Later we found out why it was so easy to stay at the monatery.

We enjoyed the tranquility and spirituality of the Eastern Ortodox Monastery. Acopella singing by young (and Lidia noticed, very handsome)monks, call to prayer at morning and dusk transported us to another time and life. Hiking was also terrific, but the food and the accomodations - NO HOT water, thin matresses on cots dating from last century - made us leave after 2 nights. No luck in getting our money back for the unused night. We convinced ourselves it was a worthy donation to a heavenly place.

We found the country of Bulgaria to be in a state of transition. While a lot of people have cell phones, you still see many horse drawn cars on country roads. Forget about credit cards. Always pay cash. The people 40ish and older seem to be dazed and confused by the political and economic changes and foreign languages. If you do not speak Bulgarian or Russian, you better be good at "charades". Younger people are more willing to try other languages. Most people are not interested in tourists.

Allen adds : Nessebar on the Black Sea is a stand-alone pennisula in time. Ignore the tourists and you're transported back in time at least 500 years. The figs we were able to snatch from low hanging branchs were DEEElicious. The Black Sea water at Nessebar is very clear and clean smelling; contrary to all we'd heard about the Black Sea.

Our inquires regarding cell phones, Internet access, and societal functional information in general, lead me to believe that either the general population doesn't know how their country functions, they don't care, or they aren't inclined to assist a foreigner. Your guess is as good as mine; result is the same - information void.

The amount of antiquities in Plovdiv is a greater concentration than I've seen in a city of its size in the world.

Sofia is a 'small' big city - ~ 1.3 million. Mostly 19th century buildings with the ancients Lidia noted. Relatively young population, and hence more open / attuned to modern ways.

Got burned for the first time by a shyster taxi driver who charged $14 for a $3 ride, and produced a computer print-out for 'proof' !! Live & learn.

All inclusive bathrooms - see 'Sink or shower' photo - are a an interesting efficiency.

Rila Monastary is a beautiful architectural site in a tranquil natural setting. The valley is almost shear cliffs on either side making for seclusion. It does also trap a dampness that must eventually alter one's 'soul (sole)'(s).

Food is not the highlight of Bulgaria, though one not fear starving. Cucumbers, delicious tomatoes, pork, chicken, and cheese are the staples. In Sofia the variety is much better; two kinds of cucumbers, three cheeses, and pizza !!

Coffee is good expresso - the mornings begin with eyes awide.

The return bus ride from Rila to Sofia was an example of ancient intelligence; if one of the four rear tires blows out, just drive slower to complete the two kour journey in four ! Relax, relax.

Bus to Velicko Turnovo today, and then on to Romania.

Still no luck finding computer that can handle video strips, but will keep trying. Not so interested in sharing the video as with the audio that accompanies.

Ciao

L&A

11 Sep 2009

Show all 6 photos