World India West Bengal Darjeeling

Nic and Davie's Year Out Travelogue Indian Subcontinent Trip 2009

Drive to Darjeeling Sep 27, 2009

27-09-09

Our long drive today takes us across the border into the Indian state of West Bengal. Towards the end of our journey we start our climb up to the hill station of Darjeeling. In the days of the Raj the Bengal government escaped from the Calcutta heat to take up

its official summer residence here and today’s city dwellers still do likewise with Darjeeling being a popular holiday spot. At 2134m, the town is beautifully situated on

a mountain ridge; the near vertical streets are crowded with a colourful mixture of

Hindus and hill tribes – Lepchas, Bhutias and Tibetans among them. On a clear day the views over the mountains to the snowy Himalayan peaks are magnificent.

28-09-09 & 29-09-09

Tiger Hill is the highest viewpoint (2590m), some 8 miles from Darjeeling and weather permitting, we plan to make a dawn excursion here to contemplate the sunrise and the ravishing beauty of the world’s third highest mountain Kanchenjunga (8586m) and other eastern Himalayan peaks. If the morning is very clear it may be possible to see Mt Everest (8848m). There are many things to see in the town; the Himalayan Zoological Park which has had success at breeding snow leopard, Tibetan wolf and Red panda, the Mountaineering Institute with its Everest Museum or we may visit the Tibetan Refugee centre where Tibetan craftwork is on sale. Ghoom Gompa (monastery) is about 8km south of the town and well worth a visit. The journey there can be taken on the steam “toy train”.

Rangpur to Indian border and on to Darjeeling

Starting out at daft o clock, again, but no one is complaining too much as that may have resulted in us staying longer. Bangladesh is trying hard but as with many of the countries we have visited who are trying to establish a tourist infrastructure hotels seem to come near the bottom of the to do list rather than near the top. We don't mind roughing it but dodgy electrics and cockroach graveyards push the limits. Not messing about Nic just stomps on anything that has more than 4 legs!!

The journey has an undefined duration as no-one will but a time on the duration of the border crossing, anything between 1 and 5 hours has been experienced previously – save us. It promises to be something of an adventure as there are two crossings with a no mans land portion in between. Of course someone asks what happens if we get stuck and they are not to happy with the silence that is offered as an answer.

Getting to of Bangladesh takes 2 hours, Bre seems happy as the last trip took 4 but Ratin is deeply embarrassed but all the messing about and tries to explain that it is just the way the country is – he at least appreciates that changes are required. In defense of the border control people, its their jobs and they appear to be highly regarded so perhaps there is a bit of “need to do this properly or there are another few million happy to take my place”. The first time we went to India it was a bit like this, no computers but lots of forms and carbon paper with many signatures required before the papers can leave the official buildings – we even have to appear in person at customs (which is separate from the border control). We are however all on message – keep smiling and it will be over soon.

We still seem to be the centre of attention. Its as if the locals are staring into a 2 way mirror and don't expect to have their stares returned. Mobile phones are out and lots of photos taken. We have been told though that many if not most of the locals we are meeting will not have seen a white face before therefore its not to much to put up with. No one is anything less than very nice with smiles all round. Considering most of those we met have next to nothing its a very humbling experience.

Hurrah we are through customs and its time to say goodbye to our guide Ratin. He is a great guy and has worked tirelessly to ensure we are happy with our trip. Bre has already requested him for her next trip. Handshakes, smiles, tips changing hands and David's thank you speech and then its off to India via no names land.

Bangladesh – an experience and I am sure future travelers will enjoy the experience as much as we did. A young country still finding its feet but with huge potential.

We have however spotted another white face coming the other way into Bangladesh from India. Bloke on his own and looking a bit bewildered. He disappears into customs and comes out on the back of a tuk tuk waving his arms and generally pointing towards the Bangladesh border. The tuk tuk driver seems unsure of direction and keeps going back and forward in front of us until suddenly he's away in a puff of dust never to be seen again.

Into India, finally, but there is no change in pace, dead slow to stop. The border crossing is at Pooramarie. We have been warned that we must fill in the entry forms without any mistakes or we will be told to do it again (and go to the back of the queue – which is not to bad as we are the queue) However doesn't stop David making a mistake on line one and having to request a new form from Mr Humph the border control guard. One at a time several officials take our passports and stamp a variety of forms – both Nic and I are mindful of our experience at the Iran- Turkmenistan border where after 3 hours we got our passports back unstamped.

Snacks have been purchased therefore whilst we wait we enjoy an impromptu lunch of mini Kit Kats and bombay mix (the remainder of which haunts the rest of the trip). David gets his passport first and sets off to change our Bangladesh currency into rupees. The money exchanging firm of ripoff and robber are waiting with open hands. After a bit of negotiation (well David saying no chance to offer numbers 1-5) he leaves happily ripped off as all tourists should be but with a pocket full of rupees.

The rest of the team gather and we all head to our transport for the next 7 days, the big purple dream machine. Looks good on the outside but a bit rubbish inside. Our new guide is Ali along with driver and “handy boy” - an excellent title that covers general dogsbody duties. He's a great lad who looks after our luggage and comfort admirably.

Off we go on our tour of West Bengal and Sikkim.

We set of towards Siliguri with Darjeeling being the first long stop we have had to date, 3 days. The roads are dreadful full of pot holes and unexpected dips therefore progress is slow. We stop for lunch at Siligurli at a local restaurant and very good the food is to. The memorable event of the lunch stop however is not the food but Yanicks acrobatics. Some time in the previous few fays he hurt his ankle and has been making a big show of how sore it is, overacting and getting little sympathy from anyone (he is a bit of a boor). He wanders in late and promptly falls over the back of his chair – technically difficult and highly entertaining – especially when he goes off in the huff. He is a pain in the arse for the rest of the trip.

We stop along the way to take a photograph of Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world at 8586m. We will see a lot of this mountain over the next few weeks.

After lunch its the Coronation Bridge the Teesta Bridge the Darjeeling. Glorious scenery and the steady climb up winding roads to Darjeeling is breathtaking. The Toy Railway follows the same route (or I should say the road follows the railway) up up and up, the railway crossing the road 139 times. Only small sections of the railway are still in use as road transport becomes more the norm with 4x4 taxis being the preferred method of transport. Blind bends, summits, potholes, sheer unguarded drops etc all make for a very interesting journey into Darjeeling.

Before we get to Darjeeling we take time to experience the areas main export, tea. We stop at a tea room in Kuesong and have a very refreshing few cups. Darjeeling tea is very light and refreshing, not like the usual “builders or black” tea. But more of that later. Tremendous views of the surrounding hills and very fresh clean air – you can appreciate why the Raj moved here in the Summer months.

Its getting dark and the journey is getting more exciting – you know all the dangers are there – you just can't see them.

Its late when we get to Darjeelng and to the Fortune Resort Central – its OK but it does have beer!! After dinner we stay up late and have gin and tonics.

Darjeeling

Late rise (bliss) but rock hard beds only softened by the few beers the night before.

Indian road signs "Anytime is safety time" ; "Help ever - hurt never" ; "This is highway not runway"

Lots of touristy type stuff today starting with a trip on the toy train from Darjeeling to Ghoom (only a few miles down the road).

No wonder it took 8 hours from Siligurli to Darjeeling – we went 8km and it took us an hour but its a real treat to use a rail system basically unchanged from the mid 1850's. Several water stops and 10 mins for pictures at the Gurkha war memorial (names are included up until 2004) make it a rollicking ride.

We stop at Ghoom, memorable for amongst other things a really strange toilet where the seat of the western style toilet had step prints like those in a squat toilet – did someone get the spec wrong?- I would have thought balancing up there would have been a challenge – and I never thought to take a photograph!!

There's a quaint little railway museum at Ghoom detailing the history of the construction and operation of the railway line – lots of old photos and engineering artifacts including engine plates from the Queens Park and Atlas engine works in Glasgow. No matter where you go!!

We stop off at the Ghoom Gompa, the local monastery to have a look around but can't get near the place for locals. Its a holiday and Guru Rinpoche was blessing the local population. It seemed a little imposing for us to stay so we listened for a bit and left the locals to their day. Some opted to walk back to the hotel but we decided to take the transport offered, it looked like rain and it did turn pretty misty so those walking did not get to see much.

After a little light lunch in the Glengary cafe we rest at the hotel before “tea tasting” session. The Darjeeling area is famous for its teas and there are many “gardens” producing what they claim to be the best tea in the world. We try a range of teas and are amazed by the differing taste, aroma and colours. Our teas of choice are 2nd flush Thurbo and 2nd flush Puttabong Oolong. Its not check but as a memento of the trip its one you can relive at home.

Next day its a very early start to ascend Tiger Hill to watch the sun rise over Kanchenjunga and hopefully to see Everest in the distance (its about 100miles away). The Himalaya is laid out in front of us (the home of snow) and its fantastic. All weather dependent but we are in luck, its very cold and a bit damp but the views are spectacular as the sun comes up and we do see Everest in the distance. Enchanting and some great pictures. As we look at Kanchenjunga Everest is on the left (Nepal) and to the right we get our first glimpse of Sikkim. Until 1975 a separate kingdom ruled by the royal family. It is now the 22nd province of India deciding that after a number of skirmishes with the Chinese that the protect of India was required.

Bizarrely the view point at Tiger Hill was once the home to a 9 hole golf course. Its now completely overrun with the club house just a shell. Ali points out where the fairways used to be and hopefully as the area has now been handed over to the local tourist board rennovation works will commence.

Its been a good morning - all that was promised has been delivered. Back to the hotel for breakfast and then more tourist stuff.

We are off to the Tibetan refugee centre. When the Chinese kicked off about 700 Tibetens took up the offer of the local government to stay here for what they hoped would be a short stay. 50 years later they are still here and have a system now where they can support themselves by selling thier products. Lots of old people however, most of the young head out to seek their fortunes and don't come back. Aparently some of these youngsters now sell cheap Chinese toys in the towns - a bit ironic. Carpets and wooden items are the stock products and very nice they are too, if a bit pricy. £1500 for a 2m x 1.5m carpet.

We were taken through the entire carpet making process from spinning to drying, knot tying to finished article - average age must be 60+. An interesting excursion but how much longer can they hold out - who knows.

On to the zoo and the Himalayan mountaineering insitute (which is inside the zoo). HMI was very interesting and also houses a museum dedicated to Sherpa Tenzing who was a son of Darjeeling. Lots of stuff on Everest but the whole area was packed and you felt a bit pressured to keep moving.

The zoo - well - lots of unhappy animals and few that looked demented. We did not go by choice.

A bit of culture for the afternoon - afternoon tea at the Elgin hotel. Gleneagles it was not but in the home of tea you must give it a go. Waiters looking a bit rough at the edges, scones like golf balls but a nice casual atmosphere and about a 10th of the price you would pay back home. Very enjoyable.

Darjeeling - a lovely town and easy to understand why the British came here - very pleasant climate and welcoming people.