World Canada Yukon Watson Lake

Alaska

Half way ... Sep 3, 2009

Well, we are half way and now heading back south. Yesterday, we left lovely Skagway, where we had two great days riding bikes around town. We were amazed by the size of the cruise ships, and horrified by the cow-herd mentality of most occupants. Main street Skagway was way easier to cruise by bike than by foot--the car areas empty except for the odd person wandering in to get the perfect shot, and the odd tour bus. But the sidewalks were jammed, until about 7 pm when the cruisers all stopped doing so, and dutifully went back to their ships. Then the streets were easy by foot, and we walked to a super dinner at The Red Onion, where it was open-mike night. L said it was the best pizza he'd ever had. I enjoyed mine too--some for breakfast! Entertainment was good too--especially the mom who was so overjoyed by her son's performance!

Before leaving Skagway, we turned left and went to the old site of Dyea, as recommended by Clare and Ron, who had joined us for appies the day before, them driving from Whitehorse to see how Clare liked Ron's new motorbike. Dyea was the end-of-the-water portion of the gold-seekers trip; it was the start of the Chilkoot trail. There isn't much left, but a beautiful forest setting (with some of the more intrepid boat people taking bike and horseback tours throughout). From here, the trail very quickly went straight up for these poor hikers, and then after that, the land becomes moon-scape. We couldn't decide if it would be better to tackle this land in winter, when the snow would even it out but it would be very cold, or in summer, when stumbling through the rocks and water was the only option. Anyway, they were hardy folks and many died, often at young ages, trying to make it through in the early 1900s.

We made it to Whitehorse in time for dinner with Clare (poor Ron, suffering from a very bad throat, didn't make dinner). Clare had prepared some organic produce to accompany the steaks we took; good food, good company. Clare and I sat outside overlooking the scenic valley that is their back yard, and enjoying the full moon (we think) late into the evening. This morning we had a hardy breakfast of blueberry pancakes with strawberry Grande Marnier sauce before leaving Lorne Mountain--a wonderful part of the Yukon, but we've been asked not to mention how much we like the area, the territory, the land. The Yukoners want us southern Canadians to believe it to be cold, dark, and inhospitable. OK. So be it (but, shhh, we loved it!)

We are now holed up in a lovely motel (in fact, that is what it is called)--the newest place in Watson Lake; it was completely booked three days ago, but we gambled and they had a room open. Well worth it--we stopped at our 'first' choice, the Gold Nugget, or something like that, and the guy in charge, Lee, totally ignored us, racing around on his show-boat golf cart and then trying to get someone to take on his car on consignment before paying any attention to us. Smoke was coming out of my ears because of his rudeness and lack of professionalism (he and his kind are why tourism has a bad name). But our good fortune continues (we've had stellar weather too) and this room was available. Tomorrow, we head to Bell II, known as the largest heli-ski opp in North America. Also great fly fishing. We likely won't have time for that, but it is supposed to be pretty too and a nice lodge. So, off we go ... but first I'm going to make us a homemade dinner in our little abode--nice to be able to cook!!

We are well and happy, and looking forward to Prince Rupert and then the ferry!