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Toughs Travels

South to Sydney Aug 22, 2009

South to Sydney

9/8/9 Sunday

We load the camper and are about to leave when the cleaners arrive – good job we are on the ball – cause they need our parking spot!

Now, the first camper we had was a fairly new one and had reasonable storage space, but as we load the present one we realise it’s not as new and has CRAP storage! It also rattles like an old banger!

So, we swear a bit and call the office in Brisbane to see if we can do a swap – but there’s no reply. So, we will just have to grin and bear it for the two weeks!

South we go, through charming little towns on the coast all with their “best” surf beach. For the night we stop at the little village of Brunswick Heads, at the recommended Terrace Reserve Caravan Park. And we get a choice of pitches – always good to have a choice – and select a nice sunny one – lovely.

Then we have a walk over the footbridge to the beach – along the breakwater and around the inlets – and around the town – now folks, we know it’s Sunday, but the world and his wife are out picnicking on the riverside, and using the council supplied BBQ’s really nice, but you’d have to have kids to enjoy it!

Then we stumble across the local hotel and it’s got live music and a nice beer garden – so we stop for a while (until the sun goes down actually) and listen to some great music (Eagles/Beatles/America/Fleetwood Mac – just to name a few). And people actually get up to dance – and there’s one old dear – has to be 80 if she’s a day – and watching her is a bit like looking at the Duracell Bunny dancing! Though good for her! The only downside to this otherwise lovely afternoon – we sit in a sunny spot underneath a tree – and of course there are lots of birds around – and one decides to do its business right on Carolyn’s head – not the kind of sham’poo’ she was needing!!

Monday 10th August 2009

Our first night in the Jucy goes fairly well – apart from Neil’s end of the bed collapsing at 4.00 am!

So, off we go to see more coastal towns and drive out to the point at Cape Byron – except we cannot get parked at the proper car park ($7.00 charge) and so abandon the camper half way down the hill!

Still, the walk out to the point is great and as a bonus we spot some Dolphins and a couple of Whales and a glimpse of a Turtle! A really nice spot to visit – touristy, but not to be missed (so says Carolyn!) And the mango and macadamia ice cream was brill!

Then we end up at Lennox Head car park, because from a distance we saw the shape of a Hang Glider on the headland.

So, we park up and go over to the Hang Glider and the owner chats to us – he’s an instructor and does Tandem flights and his bookings have not turned up – Would we like a shot at a reduced price – So, Carolyn has a think about it – all of 30 seconds – and says I’m your girl!

So, within minutes she’s signed away her life and is airborne with her arms round another man, whilst Neil watches from Terra Firma!

Was it good – Carolyn’s words….”it was absolutely fantastic – I felt completely safe – it was quiet and of course there were fabulous views. We did some 360 degree turns and a bit of swooping back and forth. If I had to make one criticism – it wasn’t at all scary – and I’m sure it would be even better if you were actually in control yourself! !”

Then we drive a bit further to Ballina, where we stop for a picnic lunch and then to Evans Heads for the night.

So, Evans Heads is a pretty small, but nice place – the caravan site is however – huge!

We get a pitch in the main park (not the riverside bit) and it’s nice – well kept and clean toilets.

In the evening we decide to go to the local hotel for the $10.00 special meals – and it’s great – cheap wine – good food – nice atmosphere – good night out!

Tuesday 11th August

Yesterday was pretty windy – but this morning is still – and it’s a joy to have breakfast in the sun.

Then we set off down the Pacific Highway to Yamba. Nice town, but tres busy – especially at the in town caravan park – no powered sites available!

So, we head off to Maclean – allegedly the “most Scottish town” in Oz – and the Riverside camp park. Dinky place but we get a nice spot in the sun. Then we walk into town and up the 2 very steep kilometres to the lookout. The view from there is ok – but we have been spoiled by our trip further north to the Glasshouse Mountains (as regular readers will remember!) – So are not easily impressed. Worth a trip in the car, but not good value for the physical effort of walking! On the way down we go to see ‘The Scottish Cairn’. Now we have seen at least 284 Scottish Cairns – at the tops of The Munroes – but none have quite resembled this conical, cemented one. It was quite interesting though to read about all the Chiefs that Maclean has had over the years. They weren’t too sure about spelling though – one chap was born in Argyll and the next was born in the same village but in Argyle! Oh well – blame it on the teachers!

Wednesday 12th August

During the night we had a brief thunderstorm – lots of noise and light but not much rain – then a cloudy morning.

Still we are off south down the Scenic route – and over the free ferry to Lawrence – then down to Grafton (just as we were almost out of fuel). The town is famous for it’s avenues of trees – Jacarandas and Fig – though not in flower at this time of year.

Then we drive through Glenreagh and down to Coffs Harbour – and after looking at a couple of Caravan Sites decide on the one closest to the beach – aptly named Park Beach Caravan Park – but this time we book a cabin, for two nights – to have some space and somewhere to sit in the evening.

Thursday 13th August

The cabin is a “study” in Brown – and whilst clean and acceptable, it’s not somewhere to spend a long time – so 2 nights will be enough. Though, we do have a large grassed area outside, so we can sit in the sun as and where we want!

We decide to go out for lunch today – and select the local Yacht Club – which has a nice terrace overlooking the ocean.

Now, a thing about these Australian clubs – the Yacht club. The Surf Club and the RSL (Returned Services League – bit like the British Legion, but nicer) – If you are a member, you get a discount on drinks and food, but if like us, you are only visiting, you can sign in at the door and get an immediate “visitors” pass to enjoy the facilities – but no discount! So, a pretty good set up – in that the club gets more custom and the members get a bonus!

So, back to lunch – excellent – Carolyn had a Mezze platter and Neil had two whole Leather Jackets (they are fish) in a lovely crust with chips and salad – Oh, and of course the mandatory bottle of nicely chilled wine – damn it’s Tough!

And, as a bonus, there is too much food, so we get a “to go box” and bring it home for later enjoyment!

Then we walk into town, by the Coffs Creek path, nice through the mangroves and forest. And, because the busses are so infrequent, we walk back but this time by a new road, not marked on our maps!

Friday 14th August

We think about staying but after brekkie (yes, Eggs Benedict for Neil and a coffee for her Majesty!) at the Surf Club we move on.

We visit Nambucca Heads and drive to Captain Cook’s lookout – now those of you with knowledge of history will know that the aforesaid Captain landed in Australia in 1770 – and there are plaques and statues all over the coast to celebrate the fact – including of course lots of “lookouts”!

We drive on the aptly named town of South West Rocks and get a lovely ocean/river side pitch – just great!

The town is pretty small so we walk along the southern beach and past a couple of shipwrecks on the beach. But it’s only later – at the Maritime Museum – that we discover that there are actually three wrecks there, all wrecked on the same day. They were all being towed by a tug, when a storm forced the tug to release the tow and though all three vessels anchored, they were all driven ashore!

For tea tonight we are getting a take away Pizza and whilst it’s being cooked we repair to the nearby hotel bar for a drink.

However we are just at the bar ordering the drinks when Carolyn realises that the Diamond has fallen out of her Engagement Ring – DRAMA! So, we are on our hands and knees at the bar (no, not drunk this time) looking for a small glistening thing on the carpet! Fortunately, the bar is not busy and Carolyn spots it in no time at all and the day is saved!

Oh, and yes the Pizza was good!

Saturday 15th August

It is tempting to stay in this lovely camp site, but again we move on to the twin towns of Forster- Tuncurry, but they are as dead as a dodo. Though the caravan site is right by the river entrance, so we stay and secure a nice elevated pitch, overlooking the marina. We walk through the town but fail to spot a supermarket so elect to come back into town and have Fish and Chips in the sit-in section, where you can bring your own wine – civilised!

So, as they close at 8.00pm (yes on a Saturday night!) we arrive at 7.00pm and order the food and the Carolyn nips over the road to the Bottle Shop and scurries back with a nice chilled Chardonnay – and the chippie provides a wine cooler and glasses free of charge!

Earlier in the day we pass by the harbour area and witness the guys cleaning the fish they have just caught – but the most interesting thing is the crowd of Pelicans waiting around to get some fish bits after the guys have filleted the fish!

Sunday 16th August

South again to Cessnock in the Hunter Valley, where we decide to stay at a Big 4 Campsite where they offer a nice two bedroom cabin with ensuite and patio on a special deal of three nights for the price of two - excellent.

This is a major wine growing area and so we plan to take a tour – so that we both can enjoy the tastings – without the fear of drink driving!

Monday 17th August.

9.30 am departure for the Wine Tour is not too bad and by 10.00 am we are at the first Vineyard - with 12, yes TWELVE, different wine and ports to taste. However, the taste is a dinky little amount – but the guide and driver (Thanks Brian) reckons that over the day we will consume 1.75 to 2 bottles of hooch. We are taught how to hold the glass, swirl, sniff and taste the wine – just like using mouthwash! Carolyn, who has no sense of smell, just wants to get on and drink – although even for her, 10am is not the best time to be knocking it back!

The next vineyard (or Cellar Door, as the tasting places are called) is a very classy affair in a beautiful situation. Our host is most amusing – and knowledgeable. Again, we have almost a dozen wines to taste. The tour is very well organised – we are taken for an olive tasting next – with bread and various dips and oils and olives etc to give our stomachs a bit of lining! Then more wine, lunch, more wine, cheese and chocolate, and a visit to The Golden Grapes which specialises in liqueurs and chilli schnapps! Wow – that was real fire-eating! The tour finished off with a trip to a brewery where you could buy a tasting paddle of 6 small glasses of beer. An excellent day out – helped by beautiful sunshine, good company and also being very good value at $35 each. Normally $40, but as Big 4 members we get a discount!

On the tour today there are only 10 of us – 6 oldies from the campsite and 4 young folk (2 from the UK and 2 Aussies). Now it’s interesting to note that the young folk are staying at the posh accommodations and the oldies are at the campsite!

Still, we all get on well – must be the booze! And after the tour the six of us gather at Chez Tough for further drinks and nibbles – good time. So hello to Debbie and Malcolm in their new caravan and Judith and Geoff, from New Zealand, in the motor home, on the last month of their three month trip in Australia.

Tuesday 18th August

As the local golf course is just over the road and advertises 18 holes for $18 we drive up to see what the score is.

And we are greeted with a very friendly girl and agree to return for a tee off time at 1.30 pm.

So, we collect the hired clubs and the pull behind trolley and set off for the first tee.

And whilst things are not perfect, the golf is reasonably good, given that it’s the first golf on the continent and the first in, something like 10 months, and on a strange course with strange clubs!

But the water hazards claim some balls (and these balls have been collected by Carolyn as we have walked around courses in Australia!) still we enjoy the walk and the challenge!

Wednesday 19th August

South to ….St Albans – but a 35 Km Gravel road causes us to change the route plan. So we head off to the Pacific Coast highway and then have a nice picnic lunch at the strange village of Brookyln – it seems like a little place in New England - but is just off the main Sydney road – but has a little harbour and a couple of dinky seafood restaurants.

Then we head for one of the few caravan parks near town – in Ryde – but it’s not well signposted – and so we drive past it and only realise some time later – and it’s seems to be in the middle of a National Park. So, we decide to drive on to south of the city, but this proves a bit of a challenge for both the navigator and the driver. All was going well until we found ourselves heading for a Toll tunnel. Now, normally this would not be a problem – we would dig out some money, have a moan, but pay the toll and be on our way. However!! – In Sydney (and recently introduced in Brisbane) – many toll roads have absolutely no lanes where you can drive through and pay by cash or card – you have to have an e-tag! Now – I can understand that e-tagging is great for locals and speeds up traffic flow – but what do visitors do? If you don’t have an e-tag, you have to phone or email afterwards and arrange to pay – at a greater cost. It is a time-consuming nuisance – absolutely crazy – there has to be a way for tourists to pay cash as they drive through!

However, we do make it to the Grand Pines campsite without incident and without falling out!

At the reception we ask about a cabin instead of staying in the van – and we select a studio cabin – no loo or shower! And it’s adequate for the three nights before the Jucy goes back.

Thursday 20th August

We awake to a cloudy morning and chilly – Now, folks, this is the first time in ages we have had a cold morning – and we are not pleased!

Still, we have to go to town and try and find an apartment to rent from 2 days time!

Now again – Sydney has a complicated transport system – which does not seem to be as integrated – or as easy to use - or as cheap as Brisbane!

So, we have to purchase separate tickets to get to town – and as such it takes ages on the bus with the fare having to be paid (there are Pre Pay tickets but you need to know well in advance the distance you want to travel – fine if you use the same route every day – but CRAP for tourists!)

Any how, we make it into town and to the Potts Point area – where we have selected a place to stay through the wotif.com website.

Though we ask at a couple of letting agents and the short term rental pool is small – and expensive. Mostly between $100 and $175 per night – not the $450 a week we had in Brisbane!

However, we select a nice apartment with good East and North views over the harbour for a two week rent, starting on Saturday!

Then it’s off for lunch on the wharf – yes, the Woolloomooloo one – and no, that’s not a misspelling! It’s perhaps the only place in the world that has 8 o’s!

On the wharf there are several restaurants overlooking the water and we select the Spanish one – Oysters and Gazpacho for starters, then a shared Paella for the main and a nice chilled white wine – ah, bliss!

Friday 21st August

The sun shines on Botany Bay this morning as Neil goes for a run along the cycle track – though the ambiance is spoiled a little by the constant noise from the Sydney airport just across the bay.

In the afternoon we drive to Kurnell (don’t bother) and then to Cronulla, nice looking beaches and Surf Club restaurants.

Saturday 22nd August

Now, folks just a wee rant about a couple of things – The Sydney transport system, not integrated and if it were our first experience in Australia I would call it backward – and secondly the TV stations – some have two different broadcasts and sometimes neither matches up to the schedule in the newspaper, and then occasionally one of the major free to air channels cannot be received on the TV – or even more confusingly on the Gold Coast channel 9 broadcasts two different schedules on two different channels!

Still we are up early to get to town dump our stuff at the apartment and then take the camper back. But at the local petrol station the Indian clerk tells me my discount coupon is out of date – Now, I know this is not correct, because I checked it as I walked in to pay – So, we have a little discussion – and I get the discount!

We are no sooner on the road, but join a huge traffic jam that reduces the three lanes to one – and then there is a detour because of an accident on the road some hours earlier. This would not normally be a major problem – but in a large city with poor road signs and we have limited road maps – but, Carolyn manages well and we are back on track to the apartment.

Fortunately, though the normal check in time is 2.00 pm, we ask and get the keys as we arrive at 10.00 am and move all our stuff in.

Then it’s back down the road to return the Jucy Camper Van – The girl at the office only briefly checks the vehicle out for damage and directs us to the nearest train station.

Now, this station is close to the airport and as well as paying for the fare there is an additional “access” charge to use the station. Now, that’s a rip off – and the fare to town is expensive!

Back at the apartment we get organised and then stumble over the road – yes, just straight across – to get our shopping in Woolworth’s – and the have a Liquor store as well – handy place to live!

More from Sydney next time

Copyright Neil Tough @ 2009