Jeff & Moe's North America Ride travel blog

Old money hotels in Bar Harbor

Optical illusion - looks like this boat is putting out a black...

I'm a sucker for rock. I like the layers. Bar Harbor "beach"

The "Mary Todd" on stand-by

Moe single-handedly saves us from Moby Dick

Four mainsails and three headsails really look great.

Green trees, sand, water, rock! Why in hell did I say I...

"Beach" is a little different up here. You only get so much...

Look again. The boat is tending lobster traps. The water is COLD...

The "Thunderhole" where the waves make a deep boom as they hit...

Neat rock, just love the fracture lines


Monday 7/27 Today in Bar Harbor starts with the sweet sound of a POURING F***n RAIN. Such delicate splashes as the torrent washes the world clean again. Moe and I come up with alternate plans to match when and if the rain falls today and tomorrow.

We really love to go on boat rides and there is a 151 foot, four-master schooner in Bar Harbor just waiting for us. I called them and the girls says “We’re hoping to sail this afternoon” [morning sail is a dead fish – Maine talk, trying to fit in here]. After a few minutes conversation, I realize she can’t figure out the weather any better than we can. So at 11:00 the sky lightens and we get ready to head to town for lunch and a sail. WAIT!! First it has to rain like a banshee again for 20 minutes. We suit up and go to town at noon. Looks better, we go to the boat and they are talking upbeat, the skipper’s actually on his way from home. We head for lunch – a tiny town with an unbelievable number of restaurants. The “Mary Todd” deck guys tell us where to eat – always ask the locals.

Well, the boat sets sail, the wind comes up [from nowhere], the rain goes away, the wind picks up some more. Hey, this huge ass boat is really moving! Then the fog arrives – you can’t tell where you are. It’s just amazing how fast the whole place does a white out. The skipper has radar and knows the place like my driveway so it’s no deal for him. Sometimes you see the tops of islands over the fog or hear the diesel roar of a lobster boat working his pots somewhere ahead. When it’s time to come in, pouf!, we can see again. All in all, pretty neat.

We spent some time on the blog then it’s Lobster Time! The Chart Room restaurant is just a five minute walk from the motel. Moe and I both order our third lobster in as many days. For $21, it’s as cheap as I can remember.

Monday 7/28 Whoa – the sun is out, the sky is blue and it is going to hit 80 today. What a treat – riding without wearing rain gear! We start out on the Arcadia NP Loop Road. The map shows “Sand Beach” and “Thunderhole” as places to stop [side note – Bar Harbor Brewing Co has a really great dark ale called Thunderhole Ale]. The beach doesn’t have real sand [silica], just pulverized rock but it sort of looks like sand. Moe calls breakfast time so we head out for food. Getting back to the bikes, she mentions that her front brake has just faded way down. A quick check shows all the brake fluid in the master cylinder is gone. Very bad news – the front brake is 80% of your stopping power.

We head for the HD dealer in Bangor with me leading, Moe 30+ yards behind, and riding very carefully so Moe doesn’t get any surprises. The Days Inn in Bangor puts us next door to our old room. I start the laundry and Moe takes Rose to the shop. Moe is back for dinner with a new rear tire and a new front master cylinder cover [had a leak] and solid brakes. Whew, bad/no brakes just scares me shitless, you get that ice cold feeling in your chest and dread in your soul.



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