World United States Mississippi Natchez

David and Elaine's 2009 "Somewhere Else" Roadie

On to Natchez, Mississippi May 20, 2009

Boring yet "white knuckle" drive across Alabama and Mississippi on Rt. 84. I had no idea how hilly Mississippi is; many sheer drop-offs with no guardrails. Made it to Natchez to the only available campground inappropriately named "Plantation Park." It is a dump. Nonetheless, we made it in time to toast the sunset over the Mississippi in the dining room of the "Isle of Capri" casino. Two nights partying waaayy too hard at the "Under The Hill Saloon" where the "Lil Godfather" (quasi dwarf Irish bartender.. written up in Smithsonian Magazine, Southern Living, etc.) befriended me and got Elaine and I pretty loaded. Also "dined" at Bowie's Tavern. This and the Under The Hill Saloon each claim to be where Jim Bowie accepted the famous duel that was fought on a sandbar in the river so that neither Louisiana or Mississippi could claim jurisdiction to prosecute the illegal fight. We had some really good ribs at the King's Tavern, possibly the oldest building in Natchez (circa, med 1700's). Had an interesting time on two counts: First, a young man at the bar challenged me to a pool game before I even sat down (bar otherwise empty at the time). He was clearly a bit "down on his luck" and asked me what I'd be willing to play for - which was nothing. It was a learning experience - for him. For the price of the few remaining quarters in his pocket, he learned that just because a guy is fat, nerdy looking, from out of town, and gimpy from a bad hip, that does not necessarily mean that he can't shoot pool. I had a good day. He probably should have used his quarters for another draft beer. Also, a few minutes later, had a really interesting conversation with a young lawyer from New Orleans working on some depositions in town. Toured three of the obscenely grandiose antebellum mansions. All I could think of is the parallels between the gentry of the time and the crack pimps of today that spend $10,000 on wheels for their cars, not in spite of the cost, but because of it. Both groups flaunt their staggering wealth derived from exploitation and violence. Both groups also developed a subculture designed specifically to explain and justify their extravagance and bottom-feeding lifestyles. Ok.. off the soapbox.. Took a bike ride a few miles away from town. You don't have to get far out to understand how Mississippi is rated the poorest state in the U.S. Lots of shacks clearly being lived in without electricity. White and black, some of these folks would have to move several rungs up the social ladder to become rednecks. Made a wrong turn while telling Elaine a dumb story and wasted over an hour trying to get out of town on the famous parkway, the Natchez Trace. It was, indeed, quite pretty, but a combination of rain and Elaine not feeling very perky (we've both had some minor, intermittent health problems), we got off the parkway and drove straight to Vicksburg.

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