World Finland Etelä Suomen Helsinki

The Euro-Spring-Tour

Suomi - Pastries, Seafood, and a Maritime Tradition Apr 25, 2009

Welcome Back -

In response to requests I have a few things to say about food - especially pastries and coffee at those little European cafes. Margaret has specifically requested that I do not mention seafood. However, I will. It is my form of rebellion against my daughter.

Suomi - Finland - has been very enjoyable, as long as you don't mind the return to winter weather. It's hovered around zero and add to that an icy wind and it hasn't always been comfortable.

So, the solution is to find a comfortable table at a nice cafe or coffeehouse or indoor market and while the time away with a good pastry and espresso. I don't know all the different names for what I've eaten since I try to sample new things all the time. The best pastries are danish-like with a nice fruit topping or filling like lingonberry or even cloud berry.The cafes range from simple stands in the market halls to restored houses and places that have been in business for over a hundred years in the same location. But I'm still looking for one to top the ArtCafe in Yerevan.

Another option to deal with the cold is to get some hot seafood chowder or freshly grilled fish at a local market. These are great places - mounds of cheese, fish, meats, including reindeer, and local delicacies. The seafood is perfectly fresh and the halls haven't even a hint of fishy smell. Salmon, shrimp, mussels - yum! There are often small restaurants that specialize in seafood dishes or that famous Nordic dish - Iskander Kebab.

My favorite place to eat in Helsinki is The Soup Kitchen (no jokes about my homelessness, please!)in the Old Market Hall down by the docks. Each day they serve three soups with a basket of crusty bread and a parsley/basil/tarragon dipping oil. Worth a trip. Five Ladles.

And I've enjoyed my time in the museums and churches here. The museums are all well done, especially the marine museums which are the best I've been to. Some of the ship's models are spectacular and the mementoes of the sailor's lives interesting as well.

I have ventured outside - and the streets of old Mariehamm and Turku, the Sea Fortress of Suomelinna, and the preserved town of Porvoo have been worth the icy blasts. The churches, especially the "Rock Church" in Helsinki, are enjoyable to visit as well.

Unfortunately the piano concert at Temppelaukio didn't turn out as well as the practice session I attended. The pianist left the stage in tears. Several times. The audience kept bringing her back in a feeble effort to make her feel better. It did not work.

Sometimes it is just time to admit failure and move on. Which I will this afternoon.

On to the Baltics. May they be warmer. Lots of photos this time.

Love to you all, may your journeys be blessed,

The Geezer