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Exumas, BahamasMar 30, 2009
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Exumas Ocean Side
Exumas Bank Side
Both Sides
The chain of islands known as the Exumas is a string of hundreds of tiny islands and cays that stretch for 130 miles, separating the deep blue ocean waters from the shallow and sandy Great Bahama Bank. The ocean crashes into dramatic limestone cliffs on the Eastern side, while the Western side slopes gently into the aquamarine waters of the bank with mile after mile of pristine white and beaches. When landing on these beaches, more often than not, your footprints will be the first. It’s a combination of these factors that make the Exumas one of my favorite spots n the Bahamas, or anywhere, for that matter.
While many of the beaches, islands and anchorages are deserted, there are a number of spots where one can relax with a cold Kalik beer and chat with fellow cruisers. One such spot is the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.
Staniel Cay Yacht Club is a favorite stopping point for boats of all descriptions from mega-yachts staffed by crews in matching, pressed uniforms to tiny sailboats with weeks worth of laundry and a few bunches of bananas hanging from the rails. It is also the location for the filming of the James Bond movie, “Thunderball.” The cave where much of the filming of the underwater sequences took place is now a haven for thousands of tropical fish and a favorite spot for snorkeling. Though the movie was filmed in 1964, the impression it left is remarkable. Original movie posters and pictures of cast and crew sitting at the yacht club bar in 1964 adorn the walls and each year the club sponsors a 007-themed party.
This year’s theme was “Casino Royale.”
Somehow the owners of the place managed to procure Las Vegas-style gaming tables from god-knows-where and a handful of employees from Hooter’s Fort Lauderdale to dress as Bond girls. I didn’t know that some people pack tuxedos and sequined cocktail dresses in their sea chests, but apparently some do. I didn’t pack mine and had to make do with a tan linen suit, cowboy hat and rattlesnake boots (I knew I packed those for a reason.) This had the unfortunate effect of making me look more Pablo Escobar than Bond, but it worked in a pinch. I took a seat at what must have been the villain’s blackjack table between the evil Mr. Largo, eye patch, bow tie and all and a gentleman in a checkered suit stroking a stuffed white cat. The proceeds were to go to charity, and I felt sort of bad about taking so much of the house’s money when I thought about all those Bahamian kids who wouldn’t be getting their school supplies, but, like I said, it was the villain’s table.
It’s tough to leave a place as beautiful as the Exumas, especially when you’re winning at blackjack and Pussy Galore’s dancing on the bar with a squirt gun full of rum, but eventually it was time to cash in my chips and head further north towards Nassau.
Michael
