5:30 a.m. slow boat from Mandalay to Bagan. I'll add more text later, but the photos give a good story in themselves....a great trip, made even more memorable by the fact that at about 8 p.m. (we were supposed to arrive at Bagan at that time) the skipper moored the boat against a sand bank and told us we could go no further that night - it was too dark, and since the river was low he did not want to risk running aground and getting stuck. So we (all of the tourists) slept outside on the sandbank. It was the day after a full moon, so it was quite spectacular to be basically bivouacking outside, bathed in moon light, listening to plenty of animal noises. One of the Australians went to wash himself in the river and was quickly dragged back by the locals - there are snakes at dusk apparently. So we had two fantastic sunrises, plus one sunset (hazy, as has been the case for quite a bit of this trip). And not much sleep in two days. But as I find myself saying on a regular basis now, really great fun - you don't get to do this sort of thing very often.....