World Australia Queensland Bundaberg

Tonic Travels The journey so far.....

Lady Musgrave Jul 4, 2008

Bunderberg, Lady Musgrave

4th July

We had decided that we would sail in company with Playground and head up to Lady Elliot and Lady Musgrave when the weather was good. We waited and waited for the weather window but it wasn’t big enough to do both Islands. We went to plan B: sail to Bunderburg wait for the weather there and then head out to Lady Musgrave. We had a good run into Bundy and dropped anchor just before the change in weather. We did a big stock up of food On the third day we were joined by our first visitors of 2008. Bill and Lynne. They are Dad and Sue’s long time friends from Adelaide and we looked forward to having them with us. The following day (Thursday) the weather fined up and at midnight we left bound for Lady Musgrave.

The night was brilliantly clear, with millions of stars but it was bitterly cold. We had all the warm gear on we could find and Tony and I did our usual two hours on two hours off. Lynne was worried that she would end up being sea sick so she stayed outside all night keeping us company and finally went to sleep just before dawn. Bill was up and down too making sure Lynne wasn’t frozen to the bone. We admired Bill and Lynne for sailing with us at night for the first time and then heading off shore 70nm (140Km) when they have only done a little sailing.

Daylight broke and we could see Lady Musgrave. We had timed our arrival for 0900, dead low water, so we could see the reef and we were on schedule. Lady Musgrave is a sand atoll covered in trees and surrounded by circle of reef. There were six yachts anchored in the lagoon but from out side they looked like they were in the middle of nowhere.

We went through the channel followed by Playground. We dogged the bommies and anchored just off the Marine Park. The wind was up and there was some chop on the water. The water was milky but it was a beautiful light blue.

The water is this blue

We had breaky and then went ashore to thaw out and explore the island. We had heard on the radio that the tourist boat was coming out with 113 passengers so we had to hurry. The Island is covered in dense tree and there is a well worn path that meanders either to the campsite and or out to the beach on the opposite side of the Island. Along the way we encountered little Buff Banded Rails (little birds that look like giant quails). They scurried away when we got near or too noisy in the case of Emma and Grace. The Island is not very big so we came to the campsite quite quickly. It was deserted as they had gone snorkelling before the hordes of tourists arrived. We walked out onto the beach which was chunky coral at the high tide mark and then lovely squeaky white sand to the beach. It was low tide so the reef was out of the water so we spent the next couple of hours combing looking for critters in the rock pools. The girls and Lynne found a big red fury hermit crab in a shell as big as Tony’s hand. There were lots of multi coloured starfish, coral and clams in all different shapes and sizes. By the time we got back to Shapelle the tourist boat had arrived and was ferrying tourists to various activities. It was too much for us and we went back to the boat for a cuppa and a rest.

In the arvo we went snorkelling along a part of the reef not far from our anchor. We got out the underwater housing for the camera and Tony went to task on setting it up, which takes no more than ten minutes. The water was 19 degrees so we were suited up to keep out the cold. The water was surprisingly clear and visibility was at a staggering 30 metres. As soon as we were in the water I saw a massive shark in the distance which was the only time we saw it. I was snapping everything in sight with the housing. There were a lot of beautiful soft and hard corals and clams. There were a few big fish swimming deeper on the seabed and a splattering of small fish. We expected it to be teeming with life in all directions so it was a little disappointing. We still had a great snorkel and reluctantly got out of the water as hyperthermia was going to set in!!

We had sundowners on the beach with Playground and chatted till the sun fell into the sea. We made our way back to Tonic for dinner and an early night.

The following day was much the same and although the wind came up slightly it didn’t stop us from snorkelling a couple of times. Tony, Brent and I went on an expedition to find a reef with lots of fish to no avail. It was still beautiful though not as clear. Later in the afternoon when the tourist boats went home, Tony, Lynne and the girls went for a snorkel. I stayed inside rugged up still trying to get warm from early expeditions. They found the fish alright, all of them, in the Marine Park!! Exactly where you would find any smart fishes!!!

It was too cold to go ashore for sundowners so Lynne and I settled in for a Hervey Wall Banger and the boys a beer or two. Another early night as tomorrow we set sail for the mainland 70nm North West.

Around 0700 we dragged the anchor out of the sky blue water and headed for Cape Capricorn.

The sail was incredible! As we left Lady Musgrave the weather conditions were perfect to pull up the shoot (slang for the coloured sail called a spinnaker and named “Sea Runner” after Brents’ Dads’ boat from which the sail came). The winds were SE at 10-15kts and a meter swell on our port quarter. For the 70nm run we averaged a speed of 8.7knot and our top speed…..wait for it…..a massive 14.2 knots. We were smoking!! You could feel Tonic lift and take off with the water rushing beneath her. She was loving every second and so were we. It was so exhilarating! That for us was the ultimate sailing day for us, the best we’ve had!!

Underneath Cape Capricorn we dropped the spinnaker and anchored and were greeted by a Humpback Whale. Does it get any better?