Guadalajara – Day 2
Since we are meeting our friend Maryloly at 1:30, we decided to get an early start and see some of the city. So off early to breakfast at Taqeueria Los Faroles where we, once again, order way too much food. We both have tacos and horchata (a sweet milk drink that is very good).
Our first stop is the Regional Museum of Guadalajara (built in the late 17th-century) which houses a full Mammoth skeleton, an archaeological section with reproductions of burial tombs, and original pottery, carving and jewellery from 4th-century. The most surprising thing about the museum is that it surrounds an open courtyard, all exterior windows are open, and very few exhibits are humidity or temperature controlled. There are also very few staff to ensure that exhibits are not touched.
If you’re into stained glass, the windows behind the altar in the twin-towered cathedral are very impressive. Begun in 1558, the cathedral is a hodge-podge of architectural styles. Apparently the towers were rebuilt in the 1800s, so they don’t quite match the Gothic façade. If you happen to be there at a time when there is a service, as we were lucky to experience, the cathedral’s acoustics were fabulous and the singing quite pure.
And, although the Teatro Degallado is closed for a month (dreaded bad luck), we did sneak in to hear the symphony practicing. The house is smaller than Opera House in Palermo, with 5 tiers and a smaller amount of seating on the floor. We shall have to plan another trip with an opera in Guadalajara and Mexico City.
The highlight of our day was meeting with our friends, Maryloly (Maria Dolores), her two daughters Maryloly and Regina, Maria Dolores’ father, and Dianne (an expat from Ontario who now lives in Ajijic south of the city on Lake Chapala). Maryloly’s father wanted to take us to one of his favourite restaurants for comida (main meal at 2). The meal was superb and, just like the Italian tradition, more than one need eat. We started with tortillas and various fillings: a baked cheese, goat medallions wrapped with bacon, refried beans, guacamole, and more than we can remember. This was accompanied by a “salad” of whole boiled potatoes, cauliflower, carrot slices, whole garlic heads and drenched in oil and spices. Also on the table were slices of jicima, cucumber and limes. Very, very delicious. Of course, we were full with the “appetizers” which we thought was the meal. A kind of steak shish kabob appeared that was divine. When dessert was suggested, we all groaned. Rounding off a very lovely comida was a mariachi band of a dozen musicians. Victor attempted to sing “Ella Al Rancho Grande” with the group, but their booming voices and loud instruments drowned him out completely.
A lovely day that ended well into the night … tomorrow we will explore again.
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