Our arrival in Bulgaria was fairly unpleasant. A wet drizzle cast a grey pallor over everything, and the sidewalks were slippery with mud and slush. After lugging our things for fifteen minutes from the bus station, we discovered that the guesthouse recommended most highly by the guidebook was closed, so we lugged all our things onward to another hostel that was cold, dreary, and overpriced. Luckily, Fran got up early to explore other possibilities and found the Plovdiv guesthouse, located right in the heart of the old town. The sunny weather and cheery atmosphere in our new digs significantly perked our spirits, and we soon came to love Plovdiv. In addition to, you guessed it, not one but two Roman amphitheaters, the cobbled streets boasted many renovated 200-year-old homes with artwork appearing everywhere. We found inexpensive eateries and spent some happy times soaking in our new country.