World Ethiopia Addis Ababa

Rumsky Safari through Africa and Beyond 2008-2009

Finding Coffee and Religious Inspiration in Ethiopia Nov 5, 2008

11/5/08

The Blue Nile originates close to Lake Tana, outside of Addis Ababa, capital of Ethiopia. We enjoyed a visit to the Blue Nile Falls as well as a boat trip on the lake to visit some monasteries there. Ethiopia proudly boasts being one of two African countries never to be colonized (the other being Liberia), and also has a strong Christian heritage that dominates the culture. The people don white gabis (large cotton scarves with a small decorative border) before entering their round churches, where colorful paintings cover the wall from floor to ceiling. Watching the local people leading their donkeys laden with packages down the dusty streets feels like going backwards to biblical times. The oldest complex of churches, Lalibela, date back to the 12th to 13th century. These amazing structures are hewn entirely out of blocks of rock, below the ground. Not only were we in the area for market day, quite an experience in itself, but we were also lucky enough to be there for a local festival, the Feast of Mary, where all the priests and residents gather at night to chant, pray, and sleep in one of the churches. Sharing in the excitement surrounded by priestly chanting in a millennia old stone church lit up at night was a magical experience, and one of the highlights of our time in Ethiopia.

Ethiopia boasts that coffee is its gift to the world; apparently, coffee was first prepared as a drink in this wonderful country. We participated in a traditional coffee ceremony, where we entered a local home where the lady of the house roasted, ground, and served this luxurious drink. Definitely gave Starbucks a run for its money. Buzzing with caffeine, we immediately sought out some tej, the local honey wine prepared as it has been for centuries, and enjoyed some traditional music and dancing, a funky style in which both men and women thrust their heads and shoulders back and forth. After frequenting Ethiopian restaurants for years in the US, Fran, Christopher, and I were excited to finally get authentic injera bread (a large, spongy, pancake-like substance made out of tef, a grain indigenous to Ethiopia) upon which different spicy vegetable and meat dishes are ladeled and eaten using chunks of the bread in lieu of silverware. The rest of our crew, however, found injera to be an aquired taste. So if any of you are feeling adventurous and in the Portland area, try it for yourself at either Queen of Sheba (MLK Blvd) or Jarra’s (Hawthorne). You are in for a treat!