|Our 3 hour journey to Kampot turned out to take 6 (tho the journey was beautiful), so we arrived in the dark - and it's very dark here cos there're no street lights (no electricity at all quite often). We checked into the nearest guesthouse, made friends with a dog there (called Wayne), and then walked confusedly down random streets till we found the river and some dinner (which was delicious). The next morning we caught the early morning bus to nearby Kep (good thing we're staying next to the bus station!). Kampot is an old colonial river town, and Kep is a quiet seaside town that was popular with rich holiday makers before the Khmer Rouge, and is now regenerating. We'd gone planning to do a trek there, but it wasn't going that day, so instead we hired a moto driver to take us to visit some local caves and a pepper farm (Kampot pepper was world-famous before the Khmer Rouge apparently) and deliver us back to Kampot (by 'hired' we mean we let him talk us into it - he also talked us into buying him lunch, not sure how tho). As soon as we arrived at each set of caves we gained 4 or 5 'guides' (aged 5-12 yrs) who each told us to mind our heads and showed us stalactites that looked like crocodiles, elephants, eels, etc, etc. At the first caves the girls with us also climbed up the very steep and sharp cliff with us to see the view - it's very humbling struggling to climb when a 5 yr old is doing it with ease in bare feet and keeps offering you her hand to help!! The pepper farm remained a bit of a mystery cos the guys there spoke about as much English as we do Cambodian, but we saw the pepper trees and finished products and are pretty sure there's some drying involved! We spent our last morning here visiting a cafe run by disabled and deaf Cambodians, and learning a bit about Cambodian sign language, and then squeezed into a minivan to see some more of the sea at Sihanoukville.