Distant Shores - the Ladd's Adventure travel blog

Hotel in Ensenada

Hussong's Ensenada

Isla Santos Todas

Moon rising

2nd fish - 1st got away - Skipjack Tuna

Distant Shores sunset at Bahia San Quintin

Light at Bahia San Quintin

Fun birds at Bahia San Quintin

Bahia San Quintin

Gulls and Pelicans at Bahia San Quintin

Bahia San Bartolome (Turtle Bay) entrance

Sunset from cantina in Turtle Bay

Cindy & Gary in cantina

Whale Bones

Cindy found a Montessori school here in Turtle Bay

We are not sure when this journal entry will be posted as we have not been able to secure an internet connection while anchored here at Bahia San Bartolome (Turtle Bay). This bay and anchorage is about 340 nautical miles south of San Diego and is just under half way to Cabo San Lucas. The weather when we arrived yesterday was in the mid 90’s with a very gentle breeze and beautiful clear sky. We took the dinghy to shore and proceeded to walk through town. It is very dry and dusty with many one story 6-900 square foot homes. The town is clean with many friendly people. We stopped at the local internet café but the satellite was down. We proceeded to the Mercado to pick up some groceries before heading back to the boat. All the roads are dirt and the town is sprawled out with no apparent logic. We did spot a nail salon as well as a pizza shop. For a town of 3000 that seems excessive. One of the pictures taken at sunset that is attached is from the open air window of the palapa (local café) where we enjoyed sipping Pacificos (cold beer) and some lobster burritos. Today we did shelling, or walking the beach for about 3 hours. Cindy did collect some beautiful shells and we found 2 pismo clams. We also found some whale bones. Later in the day we went snorkeling for some lobster. We managed to catch one and barbecued it to put it in an appetizer salad. All in all a great day with minimal excitement, some adventure and no worries.

Ok what happened earlier in the week? With the Santa Ana winds kicking in hard on Monday we decided to impose upon our neighbor there at Puerto Salina to take us in to Ensenada for the day. We stopped at the Centro Social Civico y Cultural Riveria formerly the Riveria del Pacifico which was owned and operated by Jack Dempsey with an alleged silent partner of Al Capone. The opening act was Bing Crosby backed by a local orchestra with a lead singer name Margarita Carmen Cansino better known as Rita Hayworth. We have a picture of us standing in front of the building. We also went to a shopping center, a fabric store and for lunch stopped at Hussong’s Cantina advertised as “the bar that built a town.” You’ll see Cindy at the bar. Because we played tourista’s on Monday we decided to head to Ensenada on Tuesday only to fill up with diesel then continuing south to Bahia San Quintin. Price of diesel you might ask? $2.34 per US gallon a great price considering we paid $5.14 per gallon when we left Alameda in July. We did an overnight passage under motor as there was virtually no wind and what little there was came from the south. The sunset was breathtaking and the moon rise was amazing. I tried to take some pictures but it just doesn’t do it justice. Our overnight watches has Gary on from 6-9 PM then Cindy from 9-midnight followed by Gary from 12-4 AM or so. Everything was fine until a half hour into Gary’s shift when the engine started running hard and there was a lot of vibration requiring us to lower the rpm’s that knocked our speed back considerably. When we finally pulled into Bahia San Quintin Gary started the hookah and dove the bottom of the boat only to find a piece of kelp wrapped tightly around the shaft just in front of the propeller. No damage fortunately. About 2 hours out Gary dropped in the fishing line with his cedar plug. Cindy was down below making banana bread when Gary screamed rather indignantly “Cindy, get up her I caught a damned fish!” We were not prepared to catch a fish so we had nothing ready and by the time we got out the gloves, the slip knot, the knife etc. the fish, a skipjack tuna (thank you Candi & Stuart for the book), managed to squirm free. Gary put the line back in and another skipjack was caught that we successfully put a slip knot around the tail, clipped the gills and let drag behind the boat. Our friends Larry & Lena who were already at San Quintin filleted the fish on our foredeck then Cindy proceeded to waste a good beer to make the batter for fish tacos. The meat was dark and not of any great quality so we have now been labeled fish snobs. We spent Wednesday afternoon searching for pismo clams with no success. Thursday we did some exploring of various beaches taking a long hike between the bay and the ocean to see one of the lighthouses. On one of our ingresses to the beach Cindy managed to extricate herself from the boat a tad early only to jam her toe severely, collapse into the water, and nearly got run over by the dinghy. It wasn’t broken but it has swollen magnificently. We left around 4:30 AM on Friday for our very long overnight passage to Turtle Bay. We did get some pretty nice wind from the north that pushed the boat along nicely but died late in the evening and stayed calm all of Friday morning requiring us to motor the rest of the way. Gary dropped in the line again between Cedros Island and the Baja coast catching 2 Striped Bonitas which were released as we are now snobs (apparently like the skipjack has dark meat with not that great of flavor).

Cindy is being very diligent with applying sun screen, wearing a hat and staying covered. Looks like we will be leaving Turtle Bay on Tuesday morning early heading for Bahia Asuncion where we will stay 2 nights prior to leaving very early on Thursday morning for a very long overnight to Bahia Santa Maria. Probably Saturday or Sunday we will do the short 20-25 miles around the corner to Mag Bay.

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