Voyage of Summer Rain travel blog

Yes, this really is a large, big, humongous whale!

Bahia de los Muertos

Sunrise in Muertos

Not a resort, a private home on the bay in Muertos

Remains of the old wharf in Muertos

Giggling Marlin Restaurant

Pangas on the beach in Muertos

View from the Giggling Marlin

On our way to La Paz. Finally wearing shorts!

Entering La Paz harbor


Up with the chickens today. We bid farewell to Amadeus, Spirit and Mixed Company as they headed out across the horizon toward Mazatlan and we headed up the coast to Bahia Muertos on our way to La Paz. Yes, thats right, La Paz. We have had a change of plans again and have decided to take care of gathering parts, fixing stuff etc. in La Paz. We will be out of the loop for a couple of months by the time we fly home to get stuff and visit relatives, then get back and do the installations. So, we decided that we might as well be in the Sea of Cortez and get a little exploring in there before we store the boat for the summer. So, here we go !

This cruise was also a motor sail and was unremarkable due to calm seas, sunny skies and light wind, except for the 9:00 am whale show. Off the starboard bow, a couple of miles away we observed one or more whales breaching. We has seen this happen before but is still a sight to see. Then, a very large whale came completly out of the water and crashed back with a very large splash ! This continued every few minutes though the rest of the breaches were the more normal 3/4 to 4/5 of the body showing. We noticed that the whales were on a course that converged with ours. They were still a mile away so we continued to enjoy the show without concern. Well, the courses held true and it was not long before we were all playing in the same sand box. As the captain exclaimed" Holy Shit ! did you see that?" and the crew squeeked and sucked in all the air within six cubic yards around, the whale cleared the water near us. Crew was manning the camera but unable to get a shot of the show before us. You just cannot suck in large volumes of air, squeek and gasp and also push down on the little button at the same time. The loud "WHUMP" made by the leviathon as it belly flopped back into the water was a new sound and added another dimension to the excitement.

(side note:) A few days ago in Los Frailes I mentioned to Rich and Gordon that I was sure the Mexicans were fishing with dynamite for I had seen a large explosion early that morning. The resultant spew of water was as high as my mast and blasted out beyond the length of my boat.

Well, now my little pea brain knows that something other than a depthcharge or a bundle of dynamite can cause that much water to gush out of the ocean !!

We arrived in the beautiful bay of Muertos still remembering the 9:00 am whale show that did not finish until 10:00 am and was soon followed by the dolphin show and the pilot whale show.

Day 53, 54 and 55 Sun., Mon., and Tue., Mar., 6th, 7th & 8th A lot of activity in the bay on Sunday. Boats coming and going, jet skiis, water skiers etc. We stayed on board. Monday, again we stayed on board and read mostly. Wind blew. Tuesday, we dicided to launch the dinghy and go ashore to investigate the restaurant/bar called the Giggling Marlin. It is at one end of the bay and there is a resort that takes up almost all of the other end of the bay. Big long white beach in between with about 20 pangas parked on the beach near the Giggling Marlin. We started to get the dinghy ready and the captain said we should perhaps wait to see if the building wind developed any further. We did and it did. Wednesday, up with the chickens and launch the dinghy ! Cruised the bay and just outside. Massive gringo homes just around the corner and that resort down at the end of the bay, not a resort. A home. Bigger than big with many buildings sprawling over perhaps 15 acres. We went ashore, off loaded our trash and went for a long walk along the shore. Then to the bar. Very nice. A big open palapa with marble floors a dozen tables and a full bar. We had lunch and were joined later by a sailor (Steve) off Seascape who was blown into the bay a couple of nights ago when he was trying to reach La Paz from Mazatlan. We had a nice visit and he shared info about the mainland and La Paz with us.

Day 57 Thur. Mar 10th Up with the chickens and off to La Paz. Seascape left about an hour before us. We left at 6:00 am. Bumpy, lumpy and windy until about 11:00 am. Then the wind died down, the wind chop calmed and what was left was a 3-5 foot swell every 3 seconds. Rolly but acceptable given what we had faced earlier. That condition lasted until we got to La Paz. Very pretty ride and it became quite hot late in the day. We pulled in to Marina La Paz at 3:30pm. That night we took a walk on the docks just to see the rest of the marina. We had not gone far when we came to a place where one of the fingers was lined with people in chairs and an empty slip packed with couples in dinghys. It was an old fashioned "Hootenany" ! Four guitars, a banjo, a harmonica, spoons and a harpsacord all with cruisers at the helm making some great music together. All of them grandparents ! Way cool !

Day 58,59, 60, 61 and 62 Fri thru Tues Mar 11-15 Spent the first two nights in a slip close to shore. Noisy. Moved to a slip out on the perimeter, much better. We have walked a lot. Have been in search of internet cafe's, customs office, food, cerveza, margaritas and just looking. We are enjoying the town and could easily spend a lot of time here. We have made the arrangements to fly back to the US and as I type this we are in Long Beach staying with Cynthia's sister.



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