Big cities in the Indian subcontinent are very crowded and polluted, and I can tell you that Dhaka is the worst I've come across. It's traffic just has to be the most congested in the world; just crossing the road requires great skill in timing and nerves of steel. Of course obeying all traffic lights and signs is optional.
And then there are the beggars - more numerous than I have ever come across and annoyingly persistent, but then again they have no choice. Small gangs of children ambush cars and rickshaws at traffic lights knocking on windows and sticking their arms through whenever they can. Look around and you'll be surprised by just how many of the cities population literally live on its streets. And whats more, they have to pay the local mafia (known as mustan's) a small fee just to sleep on its grotty streets. Apparently another arrangement involves the mustans providing food and shelter in return for all of their begging income, which explains why they turn down any offers of food request money.
The city itself doesn't offer much to keep the average tourist occupied, the main draws being the old city and harbour areas with the National Museum a poor second. The old city is it must be said is dirty and smelly but nevertheless has its areas of interest such as Hindu street where the jewelery makers ply their trade, the fish markets of the port area, clothing markets selling overruns of clothing made for western companies and some three hundred year old buildings, and of course their is being the center of attention to deal with.
I met that rarest of sights in Dhaka, a fellow tourist and he was only in the country to do a visa run for India. I've finally got round to updating my blog after 3 weeks of being in this country and that Aussie is still the only non-Bangladeshi I've met here; clearly this country is well off the tourist beaten trail.