Tallinn - Jul 25, 2008 - Tallinn, Estonia

Our little travel alarm jarred us out of our sleep very early. Thankfully, the sun was already shinning and greeting us, making it much easier to get ready this morning. Having learned our lesson with public transport and catching a ferry (see Bergen entry), we made sure that we allowed plenty of time for any possible obstacles we might encounter.

By 6:30 am we were leaving the Olympic Village and stood at the nearest tram stop within minutes. (I, personally, love mornings. They are so quiet and serene.)

We were the only ones at the tram stop. A few cars passed by. An old man was taking his equally old dog for his walk. A gaggle of middle-aged housewives Nordic walked by, perhaps gossiping about their kids, husbands, and upcoming vacations. (Nordic walking is basically power-walking with two ski poles. It is a very popular form of exercise in Finland.)

Tram #3 arrived on time and we jumped right in. We took a seat next to the early morning commuters dressed in their work attire. Although we are in a major city, many professionals add a lot of color into their business attire, much more than at home. But one can still occasionally see the classic banker black.

Without any slowdowns, wrong turns, or wrong stops, the tram was in the harbor less than twenty minutes later. We hopped off the tram elated that we made it. Even though we had an hour before boarding the ferry, we did not mind wandering among the market stalls with their keepers setting up the fruit and vegetable stands.

An orange canopy hung over a few patio chairs and tables and locals were having coffee, pastries, and a quick cigarette before heading off to work. Stephanie noticed that the transit workers were purchasing some large pastries and figured that we could not go wrong if we get some of those as well. So, we did.

In the usual point-and-wave manner, we were able to communicate what we wanted. Apparently we also ordered coffee as well—or maybe it came with it?! The large pastries were actually stuffed with meat, rice, and eggs and were a great breakfast. The coffee was strong and I could not finish mine so I gave it to Stephanie. The caffeine sure kicked in for both of us later on the ferry, though!

We sat at the little market cafe and watched as the square became more alive with each change of the traffic signals. More vendors were setting up and more commuters rushing in and out of the public transports. More people with luggage also appeared and were heading to the ferry terminal. Having finished our breakfast, we joined them.

The ferry terminal was laid out like an airport—with gates, departure/arrival info, and the other usual airport amenities. The ferry terminal for the SuperSeaCat was only shared with one other high speed ferry, but further down the block were the terminals for the larger ferries that looked like medium-sized cruise ships.

We found our gate and stationed ourselves with the rest of the passengers. An older lady opened the gate and one by one we stepped into the gangway after having our ticket scanned. We walked down the gangplank that led us straight into the SuperSeaCat 3 where we were greeted by a young “ferry attendant.” We rushed up to the upper deck so we could claim a spot next to the window successfully. The sun was hovering over the orthodox church on the shore making its golden steeples shine brilliantly.

The engines vibrated on a quarter to the hour and at 8 am we were moving away from the terminal; slowly making our way out of the harbor. We passed sail boats and small fishing boats, the island we visited yesterday, and the buoys bobbing as indicators to the harbor. We were both expecting that once the “super” (meaning its speed) of the SuperSeaCat would kick in we would feel it, but we didn't. Within moments the ferry reached its maximum speed of 38 knots (or approximately 70 kilometers per hour) allowing for the 100 minute instead of 3.5 hour crossing to Tallinn, Estonia. But the speed was not as noticeable as the little ferry we took for the Sognefjord Tour.

It was a smooth ride. The only time we bounced a little was when we crossed over the wake created by a large freighter ship, at which point the captain apologized for the “turbulence.”

Passengers were not allowed to go to the outside while the ferry was moving, but there were plenty of things for the passengers to keep busy. If one did not feel like sleeping in the large airline-style-but-more-comfortable seats, there was a large cafeteria and duty-free shop to visit in the center of the lower deck. Or one could gamble on the slot machines or get a drink at the bar (which many of the Brits did!)

Stephanie had been to Tallinn back in 2001 and was wondering how it had changed since then. The brochures we have seen implied it was definitely a place for men to have “stag parties” and encouraged people to come enjoy the nightlife. I was curious as well, for this was the first time that I had been to an area that was actually inside the former Soviet Union.

One hundred minutes passed quickly and we arrived in Tallinn. All the passengers with cars were requested to go to their vehicles. A few minutes later, the doors opened and we walked across another enclosed gangplank into the Tallinn ferry terminal.

We walked right through passport control and customs since we came from an EU country—no stamp in passport, bummer—and were outside the terminal facing the old town of Tallinn. A large cruise ship, the Crown Princess, was docked beside us and dwarfed the SuperSeaCat 3. A Royal Caribbean ship was also nearing the harbor (probably the same one we saw yesterday!)

We entered town through a gate next to Fat Margaret's Tower. The tower was shorter than the other ones, but literally four times thicker and one of the main points of defense for the old town. A narrow cobblestone street, lined with Hanseatic-style houses led up to the impressive central square. This is where we encountered seemingly all the cruise ships' tourists as they came in with their tours. The place was filled with people, either going to the outside cafes along the perimeter of the square or coming in and out of the stores and little museums.

We walked through the square to the tourist information office and gathered some maps and other brochures. Tallinn, as every other city we have been to, offers the Tallinn Day Card where a one time fee can cover all the attractions in town. We took a moment and calculated out what we were planning on seeing and discovered that we were going to spend a lot less in entry fees at each than buying the 33 euro card. With map in hand, we left the tourist office and walked to the nearest ATM to get Estonian Kronees, passing little booths of souvenir vendors, selling handicrafts, postcards, and jewelry made out of Baltic Amber.

Our first stop was the Town Hall and its Museum rising in the center of the square. It is listed as the only preserved Gothic Hall in Northern Europe and it is fun to see. The ticket seller quietly gave us our entry stubs and we began our visit in the cellar of the building. Wax figurines in various period costumes eerily stared at us as we read the history to Estonia and Tallinn.

The next floor was ornately reconstructed as it looked in the 1400 to 1500s. Large murals graced the ceilings and yellow and black checkered tiles covered the floor. Intricately carved furniture and doors were in every room. A narrow, spiral wooden staircase took us up to the attic with its exposed beams that showed the skillful workmanship required to build this building. It also allowed for a great view of the people in the square below. The cruise tours looked like colorful caterpillars creeping around the square as if in search for food.

By this point, the smells of the surrounding restaurants got to us and it was time to get a quick lunch. Right outside the museum was a very cute restaurant where the waitresses were dressed in wench costumes in the matching medieval décor. We checked out the prices and recognized it as a tourist trap so we moved on. We found a little cafe on one side of the square called “Karl Friedrich.” We each ordered a glass of Saku Beer—locally brewed since 1820—and Stephanie had the salmon salad while I partook in the roast beef. It was enjoyable watching the folks around the town and we tried to imagine what it must have been like 200 years ago and later, under communism.

Having had our lunch, we trekked up more narrow alleyways. We poked our heads through various gift shops and stores. We checked out the beautiful Baltic Amber. The color of these rocks are lovely and each one of the pieces is unique due to its make up and impurities. I was surprised to see for how much the stones sold. We looked at linen, crystal, and glassware. Tallinn has very talented craftspeople that create very nice items. We criss-crossed old town a couple of times as we admired the Hanseatic architecture, the colors, and the people. I bought a couple of pieces of chocolate covered marzipan as we walked over to Tall Herman, another tower, and looked at the view of the city.

Eventually we made our way to the Orthodox Cathedral. Whitewashed walls with pink accents and gold spires contrasted nicely to the clear blue sky. The interior was ornately decorated. The columns were painted with flowers and the ceilings mimicked a mosaic pattern. A large, gold altar stood on one side of the church. A wedding was happening within the hour, so tourists were guided along as well as cordoned off from parts of the church. When we left the church, a large, white, 1940s era limo was parked outside covered with garlands of flowers. We figured the wedding guests were also arriving for they truly stuck out in their summer dresses and light suits next to the short-wearing, camera and bagpack carrying, sweaty tourists.

By this point it got hot! We could feel the heat from the cobblestones through our shoes. Since we had also walked a lot in Helsinki yesterday, our feet were sore and my knees were ready to give up for the day. Thus, we found a shady spot under another tower and relaxed for a few minutes.

This tower (whose name in Estonian escapes me right now, but translated to “Peek in the Kitchen” because soldiers stationed there could peak into people's kitchen windows below) is the tallest tower in the city. Having rested a bit we walked over to the path leading up to the tower. However, the path was blocked by a construction fence. We knew the tower was not closed for people were going in and out of the tower, but there were no signs indicating a detour. Our better judgment stopped my suggestion of climbing over the tall fence,so we decided to find our way around. Easier said than done! Tallinn is a maze of a city and there is a lot of construction taking place blocking the obvious paths.

Somehow we managed to wind up in the newer part of Tallinn, far from the throngs of tourists. We then, eventually, made our way back to the wall of the old town and followed along its edge to get back to the tower. We finally found it. Tired we climbed up the hill and the temporary wooden stairs during construction and walked in.

We were ready to pay the few Estonian Kronees to go up the tower, but the lady said “Today is free!” Sounds good to us and we proceeded up the tower. Again, a narrow, low-hanging stone staircase took us up to each floor with a few windows and simple exhibits on Tallinn.

Since we were more interested to see the view from the top of the tower, we casually walked through the exhibit areas. Plus, the babushkas guarding the floors were straight out of 1962 Soviet Mother Russia and looked disturbed by our visit.

The view from the top was impressive and wel succeeded in snapping a few scenic photos of Tallinn's red rooftops. We climbed back down the stairs and exited the tower into the stifling heat. The thick walls of the castle tower kept the interior significantly cooler than what we encountered outside.

Judging by the map, we were near the section of the Old Wall that was still open for visitors. Unfortunately, construction thought otherwise, and, again, a treasure hunt began.

Somehow we made it to the spot indicated by the map, but we could not find the entrance anywhere. A large bulldozer was intimidatingly scraping up part of the sidewalk nearby and passerbys bumped into us as they tried to make their way along the street.

Stephanie checked the map; we matched the streets. I checked up one side of the street, she the other. Where could it be? We saw people walking on top of the Old Wall and I was thinking of calling out to them to tell us the way., but they would not have been able to hear us due to the construction equipment beside us. There were no obvious indicators of this “tourist attraction.”

Perplexed, I leaned against the cold boulders of the wall, while Stephanie still studied the map. I leaned over to set down our bagpack when I found the entry door sheepishly standing beside me. A small handwritten sign was stapled on the door that read in Estonian “Old Wall” along with its opening times and entry fee. We found it!

Triumphantly we walked into the tiny little room where a teen boy took our money and seemed surprised at our enthusiastic entrance.

We climbed up, again, a narrow set of stairs—our knees got their exercise today—and made it to the first turret of the wall. A pigeon sat in its nest right next to the entry way, and, although it startled us, it did not seem too concerned about our visit and subsequent inspection. I had to check if it was real and stared at it long enough to finally see it blink. Okay, it's real!

We left the turret and walked along the wall. It is fun to imagine what it must have been like when this was the actual wall of the city We looked down into the cobblestone streets and were relieved to see that we were not the only tourists wandering lost looking for this place. Two more towers were climbed, each with its own, scenic view before we made our way back down the narrow staircase.

We decided to due a little more window shopping and take a respite from walking. A small, summer cafe was perched on the side of one building. We sat down and each had a glass of Saku beer and we shared a basked of “Fried Baltic Sea Squid” (calamari).

Near the cafe is Catherine's passageway—a narrow, cavernous walkway tucked away from the crowded town square. It is lined with artisans, souvenirs, cute wine taverns, and traditional restaurants. We walked along the passageway and enjoyed looking at the art pieces and glassware, entertaining the idea that we could afford them.

We did find a nice Tallinn magnet to add to our collection, some postcards, and Stephanie found a lovely amber pendant. It is made up of the three types of amber—milky (looks like candy), traditional (burnt orange color), and green—inlaid in a silver pendant. We were happy to find this piece for it was exactly the style Stephanie was looking for. Plus, it was purchased at a reputable store so we need not worry that it is a fake as we found out many of the street vendors sell.

At this point, thankfully, the sun was making its journey west so the temperature was beginning to cool down a bit. We still had four hours before we had to board the ferry, so we continued exploring Tallinn.

We came across St. Olaf's Church and noticed that there were people on top of the church tower—and this tower was much taller than what we had climbed before. Although we were getting sore, we could not pass up the chance to climb it. You guessed it, it was another narrow, spiral, stone stairway! Two-hundred thirty four very steep steps later, we made it to the top of the tower. (I did try counting, but lost track at about 60 when a group of Germans heading back down almost took us down with them!)

This was the most impressive view of Tallinn. We could see the harbor with its ferries and only one cruise ship (the Crown Princess left already), the red roofs of old town, the glass, modern buildings of new Tallinn, the ton of cranes from the construction sites, the sapphire water of the Baltic Sea, the lush green of the parks to the west, and the Soviet-era housing developments on the far side of town. We spent quite some time up there, squeezing into the railing to let other, less patient, view seekers pass by us.

Eventually, we dared to make the journey back. Oh boy, that was difficult for the stone steps were precarious and our legs were tired. Somehow, by holding on tightly to the rope along the wall, I made it without tumbling onto Stephanie. When we popped out at the bottom of the tower, we looked up, again triumphantly, at the height we had conquered.

By this point it was time for dinner. We allowed ourselves to get lost again and came across a movie set. Large cables snaked throughout the cobblestone street and trailers labeled make-up and costumes were parked on one side. A “Deutsche Post” mail truck was parked next to a cafe where large flood lights were stationed, next to a pair of cameras. A couple of older men, wearing a lot of make-up,were smoking cigarettes with their wireless microphones sticking out from the back of their jackets.

Unfortunately, we did not see an indication of what movie and it seemed like the crew was on break for there was no filming going on at this time. The security guards dozed or lazily meandered around the area. Disappointed that I was not going to be discovered for my movie career, we moved on.

Around two more corners we came across a restaurant that looked fitting for tonight and took a seat in its decorative interior. We felt like we were in an old tavern as we perused the menu. White-washed walls extenuated the wooden beams and the silver plates on the walls. A fireplace stood in one corner and candles added a glow to the thick furniture. We sat next to the window that was at eye level with the pedestrians' waists and was decorated with summer flowers.

Stephanie had a glass of red wine from Chile and I had another glass of the local beer, but the dark beer this time. Stephanie had perch with a wild mushroom cream sauce and I had the pork chops with potatoes and lingonberries. Those chops were divine!

For dessert, Stephanie had crepes, called “pancakes,” with ice cream and I had the apple tart. Additionally we shared a glass of Vanna Tallinn—an after dinner liquor that tasted like vanilla with hint of sweet citrus.

Satisfied and well-fed we paid our young, shy waitress and made our way toward the ferry terminal. It was a little after 9 pm. The dress code of the city changed significantly since this afternoon. When we arrived, shorts, t-shirts, and bagpacks were the usual attire. Now that the cruise ships are gone and most of the tourists have left, the locals were emerging, “dressed to the nines.”

Women, wearing make-up and lovely summer cocktail dresses, were escorted by men in nice shirts and slacks. Everywhere people were wearing incredibly fashionable and party-ready outfits. Since Stephanie and I were obviously still dressed for the daytime tourist thing, we felt like we stuck out. But it was time for us to leave anyway.

(One quick note about the men's shorts here and what we have seen throughout Scandinavia. The shorts are more like pedal pushers. They are a few inches below the knee, exposing the lower calf and ankles. Although they are not worn sagging, it does look that way at first glance, but upon further inspection it looks like they are wearing women's Capri pants. We were wondering if this style will make it to the states or will it fall by the way-side like wearing socks in sandals did.)

We exited through Fat Margaret's Tower and easily made our way back to the ferry. Significantly less people were at the terminal to leave at this time than when we left Helsinki this morning. Along with the handful of other passengers, we stood by the gate. I quickly hoped into the market in the terminal and picked up a bottle of Vanna Tallinn to take home with us.

At quarter past 21 hours, we boarded the SuperSeaCat 3 again. At 21:40, we left Tallinn and made our journey back to Helsinki. A short nap later we arrived in Helsinki.

The sunset was a gorgeous orange and red and the water reflected it nicely. We took the tram back up to the hostel where we accidentally got off one stop early and had to walk the rest. By this point, our feet were aching terribly and, as predicted, when the shoes came off, our feet swelled tremendously.

We fell asleep rather quickly with our feet raised up on the bunk beds to help with the swelling. It was quite a day today!