Suchitoto, situated to the north of the capital, is considered the cultural capital of El Salvador. It has many beautiful colonial buildings and an attractive central plaza.
During our stay we made a journey on horseback into the mountains surrounding the town to gain a view of the civil war from the guerillas perspective. Our journey took us to a guerilla stronghold, now little more than a series of half collapsed trenches and a graveyard for those killed. On route we passed abandoned buildings and a large bomb crater (approx 10m in diameter) which together with earth bunkers (tiny excavations to house whole families during bombing raids) were all that remained as evidence of the bitter fighting.
During the trip we spoke with a former guerilla and farmer at his home who explained that the dire povety of the majority of peasants coupled with the lack of meaningful land reform by successive governments led to the civil war. Although the war has improved conditions for the rural population (land was redistributed after the war enabling farmers to own their land) many still live little more than a subsistence way of life. He remained confident that further reforms would be by the ballot box rather than the gun. Elections take place in 2009.
The countryside around Suchitoto is very picturesque. A boat trip on lake Suchitlan (a large man made lake some 137 km long created to service a hydro electric plant) was particularly notable for its huge colonies of cormorants.