Sailin' the Sea of Cortez - Spring 2008 travel blog

Candelero Cove

another view

dining area



our spacious cabin

outdoor eating area

San Francisco sunrise

computing in the dining area


Since retirement there are very few things that would motivate us to get up before 8am. Taking photos of the rays of the rising sun hitting the red rocks of San Francisco bay is one of them. We boarded the dinghy as soon as we could see and hiked to the top of the cliffs for a panoramic view. The hike up was steep, but clearly marked unlike the last hike we took. The drop off to the other side was disconcerting and the path along the ridge line was challenging for those not into heights. Watching the rocks get redder and redder and the blue deepen in the water was a great way to start the day.

Since most of the day was spent sailing back to La Paz, it seems a good opportunity to describe life on board thus far. All eight of us are united in our friendship with John and Mary, the captains of our ship. Mary and John brought us together and plan our itinerary every day. Considering the fact that we did not know one another at all, we have settled into a harmonious, congenial group. Even though the ship is not large, it is large enough for us all to have quiet nooks to do our own thing when we need some alone time. The four cabins are not identical. The two forward cabins have another nook, which is designed for the ninth and tenth passengers to sleep in. We are grateful there are only eight of us and the nooks provide more storage space. Each couple has their own head. The sink water faucet pulls out and becomes a shower head. We have learned to shower shortly after stopping for the day, since the engines heat the water. After a shower we have to pump the water from the spot where it has collected. We have tried to live conservatively, but our water pump cycles at all hours and we suspect that something is leaking a bit and lessening our precious supply. The toilet is a typical marine device and cannot handle toilet paper. We are all pretty used to this since most Mexican toilets can’t it handle it either. The interior dining area, which as become the computing area at the moment, is large enough to seat all eight of us shoulder to shoulder. All the cushions come off and reveal a spacious storage area underneath. Food storage space has become less and less of an issue as supplies have been consumed. The aft deck is where the captain sits and turns the wheel or sets the autopilot so he can walk away and take a break. It also has a large eating area where we usually have dinner as the sun sets.

Mary provided much of the meat from home, already prepared and frozen. This has made dinner preparation much easier, since the galley only has a small oven and two burners. We have a small charcoal grill, which can be mounted outside and that’s where we prepared the fish. Like me, the twins are not all that into food preparation and have selected the clean up role. They even brought rubber gloves from home and after every meal, we walk away from the table and they start scrubbing. Our cooking maven is Roberta. She should have her own show on the food channel. She loves to scrounge through the ever warming refrigerator and the supplies she brought from her motor home and bakes and serves appetizers every afternoon. They are so good, they leave me with little appetite for dinner. John is our captain and leader and Brad has helped him sail before. He doesn’t have John’s depth of knowledge, but serves as a very willing and able assistant. Ken has learned some of the routine tasks such as taking the anchor up and down and operates the dinghy on shore excursions. I help with food preparation and generally get in everyone’s way with my computer needs.

Our stopever in La Paz was very efficient. We radioed ahead and they had a mechanic on hand to check and repair the water leak and rough running engine. We loaded up on gas, ice, and water and were on our way in an hour. We sailed to Candlero Bay, another scenic spot with a great beach and eroding red rocks. The presence of green plants growing near the beach gave a hint that fresh water is available here. Someone had built a brick well and a plastic bucket lay nearby. We could have saved ourselves a trip into La Paz.

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