World China Chongqing Chongqing

R.O.T.I.P. (Retirement on the Installment Plan) 2008 India & China

Chongqing 28 Apr 2008

This morning was filled with saying our good-byes and exchanging email addresses as we disembarked from the ship that had been our home for eight days. By the way, for those who have asked: most of the ship’s passengers were British; two large groups were German; almost all of the rest were Australian. I met one person from Poland and one couple from Canada. I think I might have been the only passenger from U.S.A.

Since my flight back to Shanghai wouldn’t leave until the evening, I headed into Chongqing on my own to do some exploring. I first checked my luggage at the main train station and then proceeded to wander aimlessly. I eventually wound up at a monorail station. (I love to take monorails in different cities.) I checked my map and found that the monorail had a stop right near the Chongqing zoo. This would allow me to do something that VJ and I had discussed the month before she died.

First, you’ll need a little background information. VJ’s favorite comedian was Bill Cosby. (Co-incidentally, VJ and I discovered much later that we had been only a few feet from each other at a Bill Cosby performance in Worcester about a month before we actually met.) In one of VJ’s favorite Bill Cosby routines, he pretends to be someone in “special” class and says, “We’re going to the zoo today and then to China and Japan”. Well, I was going to fly to another city in China today. And, I’ll be returning by way of Japan. VJ had wanted me to try to go to a zoo and then to China and Japan, if I could. By going to the zoo this morning, I’d fulfill that wish she had. So, I did.

I knew that this zoo was famous for its panda exhibit. So, I went off in search of it. I found a very sad lion in a small old cage. I found some tigers in a much more modern enclosure. I saw many signs claiming to lead to the panda exhibit but no pandas. I changed tactics; rather than try to interpret the Chinese signs, I just followed the Caucasian tourists. Yup, they all went directly to the panda exhibit and then directly back out. I was somewhat surprised to meet up with four different tour groups that I had just said goodbye to on the cruise ship. I guess I wasn’t the only one who thought of going to the zoo. (Of course, they were visiting to see a panda not to fulfill a Bill Cosby punch line.)

After saying goodbye to my new cruise ship friends for the second time, I headed by taxi to Ciqikou, a very old section of town. This area was obviously very old but just as obviously was emerging as a tourist attraction (for Chinese tourist not foreigners). The buildings were very old and rather haphazardly placed. I tried wandering at random but kept finding myself at a dead-end or in someone’s private yard. I soon realized that several wide, paved sidewalks had been constructed for us tourist that snaked through the labyrinth of homes. I could see the foundations of old homes that had obviously been torn down to clear these paths. Perhaps, like the Three Gorges Dam, this was yet another case of people being displaced to make improvements that only others could enjoy.

As the time approached to start heading for my flight, I hailed a taxi and asked him to bring me to the train station. Unfortunately, in my haste, I had forgotten to get anyone to write down the Chinese characters for where I wanted to go. He couldn’t figure out where I wanted to go and shooed me out of his taxi.

I usually carry a translator (printed or electronic) for just such situations. However, my Chinese phrase book was in my luggage, which was back at the train station. I was in the classic Catch-22. I can’t get my phrase book without first getting to the train station. I can’t get to the train station without first having my phrase book. Hmmm.

OK, new plan. I called my friend Lanbing on my cell phone. I asked, “Will you be in your office for the next few minutes?” He said, “Yes”. I then explained that I wanted to hail another taxi, then I would call Lanbing back and have him explain to my driver that I wanted to go first to the train station to get my luggage then to the airport. Lanbing and my driver chatted for what seemed to me to be an awfully long time for what should have been a short conversation. Eventually, I learned that the driver was about to go off his shift and didn’t want to drive to the airport.

OK, new plan. Lanbing explained to my driver that getting me to the train station was sufficient.

Once at the train station, I collected my luggage and hailed another taxi. Again the conversation got complicated. I knew that she knew that I wanted to go to the airport. (She made little flapping motions with her arms.) But, she still seemed to want to know something else. So, I called Lanbing again and handed her the phone. Again a long conversion ensured. Finally, Lanbing asked me, “would I be willing to pay 100 RMB (about $15)?” Sure no problem. She showed me a 100 RMB bill to seal the deal and I handed her one of mine. Off we went. Then, mysteriously, she pulled into a gas station and beckoned for me to go out of the car and follow her. I made it clear that I was not leaving as long as my luggage was in her taxi. (It’s amazing how much can be communicated through body language alone once you get the hang of it.) So, she picked up my luggage and, while carrying it, got me to follow her to a larger taxi whose driver was just finishing filling its tank. She demonstrated to me that she was handing my 100 RMB note to the other driver. Off I went with the new driver in the new taxi. I still don’t know what just happened, Everyone seemed happy with the transactions. I guess my understanding it wasn’t important.