Sailin' the Sea of Cortez - Spring 2008 travel blog

Land's End

Although every day we have been in the Sea of Cortez it has been bright and sunny with lows in the 60º’s and highs in the 90º’s, the wind has been much harder to predict. We’ve had little opportunity to really sail. Most of the time the wind is blowing the opposite direction of where we’ren trying to go. We had a good spell yesterday and about ten minutes after the sails were up and properly placed, the wind dwindled to nothing. But lately the wind turned mean. It generated choppy waves that made some of us sea sick. Since all of us are more or less sick already, blowing a steady stream into kleenex and hacking our lungs into smithereens, this added insult to injury. This choppy wind lasted into the night, slamming the waves against our cabin walls and rattling the anchor and mast. The catamaran makes such unexpected noises in the dark. For a while it sounded like chain saw was running. What was that all about?

Illness and a lack of sleep left us feeling lethargic and unambitious. We found an anchorage in a protected cove about an hour sail away from La Paz and hunkered down for the rest of the day. In the heat of the afternoon it was a nice spot to swim and snorkel or read a book under beach umbrella. After eating nine days of home cooked food, it was time to give the kitchen crew a break and we dinghied into shore for dinner out. The seafood tasted so fresh and so it should. The restaurant had built a pen on the shore and stored all the fish on the menu there until it was dinner time.

The nasty, choppy waves continued throughout our last night and we were glad we only need to sail an hour into the marina. We were welcomed by the Moorings staff who loaded their wheelbarrows with the leftover food so those of us in motor homes could finish it off. We called the rental car agency who promised to pick us up in twenty Mexican minutes - about an hour. We drove about ninety miles to Cabo San Lucas, our final destination for this trip. The route took us through rather hostile looking desert, but as soon as we reach the coast, that hostility was being turned into gated communities by real estate developers. We wondered how enough fresh water would be provided for folks living here. Desalinization seems like the only choice, but that’s an expensive one.

The condo has a great view overlooking the most scenic part of Cabo, Los Arcos. These rock formations punctuate the very bottom of the Baja. After the last ten days in the ship’s cabin, the one bedroom condo feels luxuriously large. And the first hot shower we’ve had in days felt delicious. Tonight we slept to the sound of the waves without the thumping and slapping. A great sound for finally getting a good night’s sleep.

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